How to Knit a Boatneck Jumper
Knit a lightweight boatneck jumper with three-quarter sleeves and a relaxed, easy-to-layer fit. The front and back are worked alike, while the raglan shaping creates a wide neckline that sits neatly across the shoulders.
The original design uses printed yarn worked from two balls at once, alternating rows to create a more evenly blended, dappled colour effect.
Project Details
- Project number: P024
- Difficulty: Easy knit
- Sizes: Small, Medium, Large and Extra Large
- Construction: Knitted flat in four separate pieces
- Style: Boat neckline with raglan sleeves
Finished Measurements
- Fits bust: 80 (90–100–110) cm
- Garment bust: 87 (97–107–117) cm
- Finished length: approximately 47 (48–49–50) cm
- Sleeve length: 21 cm for all sizes
What You Will Need
Yarn
- Ficio Starburst: 5 (6–7–8) × 100 g balls
Needles and Equipment
- Pair of 4.00 mm knitting needles
- Wool needle for sewing seams and weaving in ends
- Stitch markers, optional
Alternative Yarns
Choose a smooth fingering, 4 ply or light sport-weight yarn that can achieve the required tension of 24 stitches and 30 rows to 10 cm in stocking stitch using approximately 4.00 mm needles.
- Printed or variegated 4 ply yarn: The closest substitute for recreating the blended colour effect shown in the original jumper.
- Self-striping light sport yarn: Produces more distinct bands of colour across the body and sleeves.
- Merino 4 ply: Creates a soft, warm and lightweight jumper with good stitch definition.
- Cotton or cotton-blend 4 ply: A breathable option suited to warmer weather, although the finished garment may have less elasticity than wool.
- Wool and acrylic blend: Combines warmth and resilience with easier washing and reduced shrinkage.
- Easy-care acrylic 4 ply: A practical and economical option for regular wear.
Match the replacement yarn by total metreage rather than ball count. Knit and wash a tension square before beginning, as even a small variation in gauge may noticeably alter the jumper’s width and neckline.
Working with Printed Yarn
The project sheet recommends working from two balls at the same time and alternating the balls on successive rows. This helps distribute the colour changes and prevents obvious blocks or pooling.
- Begin with the first ball and work one row.
- Leave the first yarn attached and work the next row from the second ball.
- Continue alternating the two balls, carrying the unused yarn loosely up the side edge.
- Avoid pulling the carried yarn too tightly, as this may shorten or pucker the edge.
Tension
24 stitches and 30 rows to 10 cm over stocking stitch using 4.00 mm needles.
Knitting Abbreviations
- K: knit
- P: purl
- K2tog: knit two stitches together
- Kfb: knit into the front and back of the next stitch to increase one stitch
- P2tog: purl two stitches together
- St or sts: stitch or stitches
- Rep: repeat
- Beg: beginning
- Rem: remaining
- Dec: decrease
- Inc: increase
- Alt: alternate
- Stocking stitch: knit one row, purl one row
Understanding the Rib Pattern
The lower hem and sleeve cuffs use a narrow rib made from alternating knit and purl stitches. Ribbing is stretchier than stocking stitch and helps the edges sit neatly against the body.
- Row 1: K2, *P1, K1; repeat from * to the final stitch, K1.
- Row 2: K1, *P1, K1; repeat from * to the end.
Repeat these two rows to maintain the established rib pattern.
Size Instructions
The first stitch count applies to size Small. Figures in brackets apply to sizes Medium, Large and Extra Large in that order.
Knit the Back and Front
Make two matching pieces.
Work the Lower Ribbing
- Using 4.00 mm needles, cast on 103 (113–125–137) stitches.
- Work Rows 1 and 2 of the rib pattern.
- Work a further 6 rows in rib, giving 8 rib rows in total.
Work the Main Panel
- Continue in stocking stitch.
- Work until the piece measures 35 cm from the cast-on edge.
- Finish after a purl row.
Begin the Raglan Armholes
- Cast off 2 stitches at the beginning of each of the next 2 rows.
- You should have 99 (109–121–133) stitches.
Raglan Shaping for Size Small
- Decrease one stitch at each end of the next row.
- Decrease one stitch at each end of the following sixth row.
- You should have 95 stitches.
- Work one row without shaping.
Raglan Shaping for Sizes Medium, Large and Extra Large
- Decrease one stitch at each end of each of the next 2 rows.
- Work one row without shaping.
- Decrease one stitch at each end of the next row.
- Work one row without shaping.
- You should have 103 (115–127) stitches.
- Repeat the preceding 5-row sequence 3 (5–10) more times.
- You should have 85 (85–67) stitches.
Complete the Raglan Shaping
- For all sizes, decrease one stitch at each end of the next row.
- Continue decreasing one stitch at each end on every second and fifth row.
- Continue until 49 (51–55–57) stitches remain.
- Purl one row.
- Cast off.
Knit the Sleeves
Make two matching sleeves.
Work the Cuffs
- Using 4.00 mm needles, cast on 63 (69–73–79) stitches.
- Work 8 rows in the established rib pattern.
Shape the Sleeves
- Change to stocking stitch.
- Increase one stitch at each end of the sixth row.
- Continue increasing at both ends on every 7th (7th–5th–alternate) row until there are 71 (77–85–83) stitches.
- Continue increasing on every 9th (9th–7th–5th) row until there are 77 (83–91–101) stitches.
- Continue without further shaping until the sleeve measures 21 cm, or the desired length, from the cast-on edge.
- Finish after a purl row.
Begin the Sleeve Raglan
- Cast off 2 stitches at the beginning of each of the next 2 rows.
- You should have 73 (79–87–97) stitches.
Sleeve Raglan Shaping for Size Small
- Decrease one stitch at each end of the next row.
- Continue decreasing at both ends on every fifth row until 67 stitches remain.
- Work one row without shaping.
Sleeve Raglan Shaping for Sizes Medium, Large and Extra Large
- Decrease one stitch at each end of each of the next 2 rows.
- Work one row without shaping.
- Decrease one stitch at each end of the next row.
- Work one row without shaping.
- You should have 73 (81–91) stitches.
- Repeat the preceding 5-row sequence 0 (3–6) more times.
- You should have 73 (63–55) stitches.
Complete the Sleeve Raglan
- For all sizes, decrease one stitch at each end of the next row.
- Continue decreasing at both ends on every second and fifth row until 29 stitches remain.
- Purl one row.
- Cast off.
Assemble the Jumper
- Lay the front, back and sleeves flat and identify each raglan edge.
- Join the raglan seams, sewing from the underarm towards the neck edge.
- Sew all four raglan seams in the same direction for a consistent finish.
- Join the side seams from the lower hem to the underarm.
- Join each sleeve seam from the cuff to the underarm.
- Weave in all loose yarn ends.
- Gently block the jumper to the finished measurements, following the selected yarn’s care instructions.
Helpful Tips
Check your tension before beginning. The wide boat neckline is created by the remaining raglan stitches, so an incorrect gauge may make the neck opening noticeably wider or narrower.
Mark each decrease row as you work. The raglan shaping uses different decrease intervals depending on the size.
When working with printed yarn, alternate between two balls to soften abrupt colour changes and reduce pooling.
Before sewing the raglan seams, pin or lightly tack the pieces together and try the garment against the body to check the neckline and sleeve placement.