How to Knit Seamed Cabled House Socks
Knit a cosy pair of chunky house socks with ribbed cuffs, shaped heels and decorative cable panels running along the outer sides. The socks are worked flat from the cuff to the toe, then joined along the inner seam.
The pattern includes four sizes for children and adults. It also provides guidance for adjusting the calf width and foot length, making it easier to customise the fit.
Project Details
- Project number: P056
- Difficulty: Easy knit
- Sizes: 2–5 years, 6–10 years, Women’s and Men’s
- Construction: Knitted flat and seamed
- Features: Ribbed cuff, cable panel and shaped heel
Finished Measurements
- 2–5 years: fits a foot approximately 14 cm long; sock length approximately 12 cm
- 6–10 years: fits a foot approximately 18 cm long; sock length approximately 16 cm
- Women’s: fits a foot approximately 24 cm long; sock length approximately 23 cm
- Men’s: fits a foot approximately 27 cm long; sock length approximately 30 cm
What You Will Need
Yarn
- Lincraft Veronica: 1 (1–2–2) × 100 g balls
The first quantity applies to size 2–5 years, followed by 6–10 years, Women’s and Men’s.
Needles and Equipment
- Pair of 6.00 mm knitting needles
- Cable needle
- Stitch holder
- Wool needle for sewing seams and weaving in ends
- Stitch marker
Alternative Yarns
Choose a soft chunky or bulky-weight yarn that can achieve a tension of 18 stitches and 20 rows to 10 cm in stocking stitch using 6.00 mm needles. The yarn should be durable enough for indoor footwear while remaining soft against the skin.
- Chunky wool: A warm, breathable option with good elasticity and clear cable definition.
- Machine-washable chunky wool: A practical choice for house socks that may need frequent washing.
- Wool and acrylic chunky blend: Combines warmth, durability and easier care.
- Chunky acrylic: An economical, easy-care alternative, although it may be less breathable than wool.
- Two strands of DK or 8 ply held together: May be suitable where chunky yarn is unavailable, provided the stated tension and finished fabric are achieved.
Avoid very fluffy, boucle or loosely spun yarns, as they may hide the cable pattern and wear quickly under the foot. Match the replacement yarn by total metreage rather than ball weight.
Tension
18 stitches and 20 rows to 10 cm over stocking stitch using 6.00 mm needles.
Knit and wash a tension square before beginning. The correct tension is important because it affects both the foot length and the circumference of the finished sock.
Knitting Abbreviations
- K: knit
- P: purl
- K2tog: knit two stitches together
- P2tog: purl two stitches together
- Sl1: slip one stitch purlwise
- PSSO: pass slipped stitch over
- cn: cable needle
- RS: right side
- WS: wrong side
- St or sts: stitch or stitches
- Beg: beginning
- Rem: remaining
Understanding the Cable Abbreviations
- 2/1 RPC: Slip 1 stitch onto the cable needle and hold it at the back. Knit the next 2 stitches, then purl the stitch from the cable needle.
- 2/1 LPC: Slip 2 stitches onto the cable needle and hold them at the front. Purl the next stitch, then knit the 2 stitches from the cable needle.
- 2/2 RC: Slip 2 stitches onto the cable needle and hold them at the back. Knit the next 2 stitches, then knit the 2 stitches from the cable needle.
- 2/2 LC: Slip 2 stitches onto the cable needle and hold them at the front. Knit the next 2 stitches, then knit the 2 stitches from the cable needle.
How to Read the Cable Chart
Read right-side chart rows from right to left and wrong-side rows from left to right. Work the reverse-stocking-stitch sections between the cable panels using the stitch counts specified for the selected size.
The cable design is an 18-row repeat. The written instructions below can be used instead of the chart.
Size Instructions
The original pattern gives the Women’s size first. Figures in brackets apply to sizes 2–5 years, 6–10 years and Men’s in that order.
Knit the Left Sock
Work the Cuff
- Using 6.00 mm needles, cast on 42 (34–36–46) stitches.
- Row 1: K2, *P2, K2; repeat from * to the end.
- Row 2: P2, *K2, P2; repeat from * to the end.
- Repeat the rib pattern until the cuff measures 4 (3–4–5) cm.
Set Up the Left Cable Panel
- Set-up Row 0: K6 (4–4–6), work Cable Row 0, then K24 (18–20–28).
- Cable Row 0 is: K4, P4, K4.
Begin the Cable Repeat
- Row 1: P24 (18–20–28), P3, 2/1 RPC, 2/1 LPC, P3, then P6 (4–4–6).
- Row 2: K6 (4–4–6), K3, P2, K2, P2, K3, then K24 (18–20–28).
- Row 3: P24 (18–20–28), P2, 2/1 RPC, P2, 2/1 LPC, P2, then P6 (4–4–6).
- Row 4: K6 (4–4–6), K2, P2, K4, P2, K2, then K24 (18–20–28).
- Work a further 7 (0–0–17) rows in the established cable pattern.
Full 18-Row Cable Pattern
- Row 1: P3, 2/1 RPC, 2/1 LPC, P3.
- Row 2: K3, P2, K2, P2, K3.
- Row 3: P2, 2/1 RPC, P2, 2/1 LPC, P2.
- Row 4: K2, P2, K4, P2, K2.
- Row 5: P1, 2/1 RPC, P4, 2/1 LPC, P1.
- Row 6: K1, P2, K6, P2, K1.
- Row 7: 2/1 RPC, P6, 2/1 LPC.
- Row 8: P2, K8, P2.
- Row 9: 2/1 LPC, P6, 2/1 RPC.
- Row 10: K1, P2, K6, P2, K1.
- Row 11: P1, 2/1 LPC, P4, 2/1 RPC, P1.
- Row 12: K2, P2, K4, P2, K2.
- Row 13: P2, 2/1 LPC, P2, 2/1 RPC, P2.
- Row 14: K3, P2, K2, P2, K3.
- Row 15: P3, 2/1 LPC, 2/1 RPC, P3.
- Row 16: K4, P4, K4.
- Row 17: P4, 2/2 RC, P4.
- Row 18: K4, P4, K4.
Repeat Rows 1–18 as required while maintaining the cable panel in the position specified for the left or right sock.
Shape the Calf
- Keeping the cable pattern correct, work: K1, K2tog, K3 (1–1–3), work the cable panel, knit to the final 3 stitches, Sl1, K1, PSSO, K1.
- Work in pattern for 3 (2–3–3) rows.
- Repeat the shaping sequence once (once–once–twice) more.
- Continue without shaping until the work measures 17 (8–12–23) cm from the cast-on edge.
- Finish after a wrong-side row.
- You should have 38 (30–32–40) stitches.
Adjust the Calf Width
To increase or reduce the calf circumference, add or remove one stitch at each end of the cable set-up row.
If the calf width has been adjusted, remove or add the extra stitches when the sock measures approximately 12 (3–7–18) cm.
Turn the Heel
- On the next right-side row, knit the first 18 (16–17–19) stitches and place a marker.
- These stitches form the heel and are worked in stocking stitch.
- Continue working the cable section in reverse stocking stitch as established.
- On the next row, work in cable pattern to the marker, then purl to the end.
- Repeat these 2 rows once more.
- Place the cable-panel stitches on a holder and continue on the heel stitches only.
Heel Short Rows
For Women’s and Men’s sizes, begin with Rows 1 and 2. For the children’s sizes, begin at Row 3.
- Row 1: K17, turn.
- Row 2: P16, turn.
- Row 3: K14, turn.
- Row 4: P12, turn.
- Row 5: K10, turn.
- Row 6: P8, turn.
- Row 7: K6, turn.
- Row 8: P4, turn.
- Row 9: K6, turn.
- Row 10: P8, turn.
- Row 11: K10, turn.
- Row 12: P12, turn.
- Row 13: K14, turn.
- Row 14: P16, turn.
Complete the Foot
- On Row 15, knit across all heel stitches.
- Continue across the held cable-panel stitches, maintaining the cable pattern.
- Work the heel stitches in stocking stitch and the cable panel in its established pattern.
- Continue until the work measures 17 (10–12–20) cm from the corner of the turned heel.
- Finish after a wrong-side row.
Adjust the Foot Length
To customise the sock, continue the foot until it measures approximately 3 cm less than the wearer’s full foot length. The remaining length will be created by the toe shaping.
Shape the Toe
- Knit 19 (15–16–20) stitches.
- Place the remaining stitches on a holder.
- Continue on the active stitches and knit 1 row.
- Working in stocking stitch, cast off 3 (2–2–3) stitches at the beginning of the next row.
- Repeat this cast-off row 3 more times.
- You should have 7 (9–8–8) stitches.
- Cast off.
- Return the held toe stitches to the needle and join a new length of yarn at the inner toe edge.
- Work the same cast-off sequence to shape the second side of the toe.
- Cast off the remaining stitches.
Knit the Right Sock
Work the right sock as for the left through the cuff, but place the cable panel on the opposite side.
Right Sock Cable Set-Up
- Set-up Row 0: K24 (18–20–28), work Cable Row 0, then K6 (4–4–6).
- Work 11 (3–3–21) rows in the right-sock cable arrangement.
- Continue the calf shaping and length instructions as for the left sock.
Turn the Right Heel
- Knit the first 18 (16–17–19) stitches and place a marker.
- Work these stitches in stocking stitch for the heel.
- Continue the cable panel to the end of the row.
- Repeat the division row once more.
- Place the stitches after the marker on a holder.
- Complete the heel, foot and toe in the same way as the left sock.
Assemble the Socks
- Fold each sock with the inner edges aligned.
- Join the inner sock seam using mattress stitch.
- Match the cuff edges carefully so the ribbing aligns.
- Sew the shaped toe edges together neatly.
- Weave in all loose yarn ends securely.
- Gently shape the socks by hand.
Helpful Tips
Use separate row counters for the overall sock length and the 18-row cable repeat. This makes it easier to keep both socks identical.
Place a marker beside the cable panel to identify the outer edge of each sock. The left and right socks position the cable on opposite sides.
When turning the heel, do not wrap the stitches unless you intentionally choose to use a different short-row method. Follow the stated turning points to create the original heel shape.
These socks are intended as indoor house socks. Knitted soles may be slippery on polished floors. Consider adding suitable non-slip fabric or purpose-made sock grip to the soles after completing the project.
Wash and dry the socks according to the yarn label. Avoid excessive heat, which may shrink wool or damage synthetic fibres.