How to Knit the Baby Romper
The pattern includes sizes for 3, 6 and 12 months and can be worked in Makr Organic Cotton, Lincraft Baby 8ply Merino or Makr Baby Soft 8ply.
Project: Baby Romper
Pattern: P347
Craft type: Knitting
Difficulty: EASY KNIT
Measurements
| MONTHS | 3 | 6 | 12 |
|---|---|---|---|
| Chest Measurement | 20.5cm | 22.5cm | 24cm |
| Hips (at widest point) | 23cm | 25cm | 27cm |
| Length | 31.5cm | 35cm | 38cm |
Yarn Required
| Yarn | 3 months | 6 months | 12 months |
|---|---|---|---|
| Makr ORGANIC COTTON Yarn 100g balls | 2 | 2 | 2 |
| Lincraft BABY 8PLY MERINO Yarn 50g balls | 4 | 4 | 4 |
| Makr BABY SOFT 8PLY Yarn 100g balls | 2 | 2 | 2 |
Needles and Equipment
- for ORGANIC COTTON 3.5mm knitting needles
- 3mm knitting needles for leg borders
- for BABY 8PLY MERINO & BABY SOFT 4mm knitting needles
- 3.5mm knitting needles for leg borders
- Lockable Stitch Markers
- Wool needle for sewing in ends
- Buttons x 2, 11mm or Size 18
Tension
ORGANIC COTTON:
3.5mm: 24sts x 30 rows = 10cm x 10cm.
BABY 8PLY MERINO and BABY SOFT 8PLY:
4mm: 22sts x 30 rows = 10cm x 10cm.
Knitting Abbreviation
- k: Knit
- kfb: Knit into the front (as normal) and then again into the back of the same stitch, creating two stitches out of one.
- k2tog: Knit two stitches together.
- p: Purl
- pfb: Purl into the front (as normal) and then again into the back of the same stitch, creating two stitches out of one.
- p2tog: Purl two stitches together.
- rs: Right side – the front of work.
- skpo: Slip one stitch knitwise, knit the next stitch, pass the slipped stitch over the worked stitch.
- stst: stocking stitch: Row 1 (rs): knit. Row 2 (ws): purl.
- w&t: wrap and turn: A row is worked to a certain number of stitches before being turned and the same stitches worked back across.
- ws: Wrong side – the back of the work.
- yo: Yarn over – bring the yarn forwards under the right needle, then take it over the needle to the back to create a new loop (stitch) on the needle. Work the next stitch on the left needle as normal.
ROMPER PATTERN
BACK - WAISTBAND
Using 4mm needles cast on 47 [51,55] sts.
Work back waistband in garter st (plain knit stitch for 8 rows in total)
Back Shaping:
Row 1.(rs) K30, 32, 34, *wrap and turn
Row 2. k13, wrap and turn
Row 3. P19, wrap and turn.
Row 4. P25, wrap and turn
Row 5. K31, wrap and turn.
Row 6. P37, wrap and turn.
Row 7. K to end.
Row 8. P to end.
47[51,55] sts left on needle.
BACK
Work without shaping for 8 [12,14] rows.
47 [51,55] sts on needle.
HIP SHAPING
Increase by 1st at each end of the next and following 8th row as follows:
Row 1 (rs): kfb, knit to last 2 sts, kfb, k1.
Row 2-8: work in stocking stitch.
Repeat Rows 1-8, 2,[2,2] more times until there are 53[57,61] sts on needle.
Place a lockable stitch marker in the first and last stitch on your needle. This will help when it comes to picking up sts for leg borders later on.
53[57,61] sts on needle.
BACK LEG OPENINGS
Decreases for back leg openings
Decrease by 1 st at each end of the next and every alternate row as follows:
Row 1 (rs): k2tog, k to last two sts k2tog.
Row 2 purl.
Repeat Rows 1-2, 5[5,6] more times until you have 41[45,47] sts on needle, ending with a ws row.
Now decrease by 1 st at each end of every row as follows:
Row 1(rs) k2tog, k to last two sts, k2tog.
Row 2 p2tog, p to last two sts, p2tog,
Repeat rows 1-2, 5[6,6] more times until there are 17 [17,19] sts on needle, ending with a ws row.
CROTCH
Work without shaping for 8 rows.
17 [17,19] sts on needle
FRONT LEG OPENINGS
Increase for front leg openings
Increase by 1 st at each end of the next and every alternate row as follows:
Row 1 (rs): kfb, k to the last 2 sts, kfb, k1.
Row 2: p.
Repeat rows 1-2, 2[3,4] more times until there are 23[25,29] sts on your needle, ending with a ws row.
Now increase by 1 st at each end of ev row as follows:
Row 1 (rs): kfb, k to the last 2 sts, kfb, k1.
Row 2. Pfb, p to last 2 sts, pfb, p1.
Repeat rows 1-2, 2[2,2] more times until you have 35 [37,41] sts on your needle, ending with a ws row.
Using cable cast-on method, cast on new sts at the beginning of the next two rows, as follows:
Row 1 (rs): cast on 9 [10,10] sts, you now have 44 [47,51] sts on your left needle, knit across all sts.
Row 2. Cast on 9 [10,10] sts, you now have 53 [57, 61] sts on your left needle, p across all sts.
Place a lockable stitch marker in the first and last stitch on your needle. This will help when it comes to picking up stitches for leg borders later on.
You now have 53 [57,61] sts on needle.
FRONT
Front of the romper
Work without shaping for 8 rows.
WAIST SHAPING
Decrease by 1 st at each end of the next and following 8th rows as follows:
Row 1 (rs): k2tog, k to last 2 sts, k2tog.
Rows 2-8: work in stocking stitch
Repeat rows 1-8, 2[2,2] more times until there are 47 [51,55] sts on your needle.
You now have 47 [51,55] sts on needle.
ROMPER FRONT
Work without shaping for 2[6,8] rows.
You now have 47 [51,55] sts on needle.
FRONT WAISTBAND
Front waistband in garter st
Work a 9-stitch garter st edging at each end of the work as follows:
Row 1 (rs): k.
Row 2: k9, purl to last 9 sts, k9
Repeat rows 1-2, 3[3,3] more times ending with a ws row.
Place a lockable stitch marker in the first and last stitch on your needle. These edges will match up with the back waistband when sewing the side seams later on.
UNDERARM SHAPING
Decreases for underarm shaping
Keep working garter st edging, and cast off 3 sts at the beginning of the next 2 rows as follows:
Row 1 (rs): cast off 3 stitches , knit to last 9 stitches, k6 4 times.
Row 2: cast off 3 stitches k3, purl to last 6 stitches, k6.
You now have 41 [45, 49] stitches on your needle.
FRONT BIB SHAPING
Continuing working a 6-stitch garter stitch edging, decrease by 1 stitch on the inside of of the garter stitch band at each end of the next and following 4th row as follows:
Row 1 (rs): k6, skpo, knit to last 8 stitches, k2tog, k6.
Row 2: k6, purl to last 6 stitches, k6.
Row 3: k6, knit to last 6 stitches, k6.
Row 4: k6, purl to last 6 stitches, k6.
You now have 39 [43, 47] stitches on your needle.
Repeat Rows 1-4, 3 [4, 5] more times until there are 33 [35, 37] stitches on your needle.
Row 1. (rs): cast off 3 sts, k.
Row 2. Cast of 3 stitches, purl to last 6 sts, k6.
Row 3. K.
Row 4. K6, purl to last 6 sts, k6.
You now have 39[43,47] sts on your needle.
Repeat Rows 1-4, 3[4,5] more times until there are 33 [35,37] sts on your needle.
TOP BORDER
Top Garter St Border
Work 4 rows of garter sts, decreasing 2 sts as above on the 1st row as follows:
Row 1 (rs): k6, skpo, k to last 8 sts, k2tog, k6.
Row 2-4 K.
You now have 31[33,35] sts on needle.
STRAPS
Make 2 x 7st straps as follows:
Row 1 (rs): k7, sl these 7 sts onto a stitch holder, cast off 17[19,21] sts in garter st, k6.
You now have 7 sts on the needle and 7 sts on the stitch holder.
Continue working the 7 sts on the needle until the strap measures 20[22,23] cm, ending with a ws row.
Make eyelet button hole as follows:
Row 1(rs): k3, yo, k2tog, k2.
Row 2-6: knit
Row 7: cast off 7 sts. Break off yarn.
Slip the 7 sts off the stitch holder onto the needle, rejoin yarn making sure the next row to be worked in the wrong side. Work as the previous strap.
LEG BORDERS
The leg borders run from front side-seam to back side-seam where you placed the stitch markers at the beginning and end of leg shaping. Identify the border for the right leg (as worn), you will work from this front stitch marker to the back stitch marker.
With the right side facing towards you, using a 3.5mm needle, pick up and knit 52[56,60] sts evenly along this edge.
Work 4 rows in garter st.
Row 5, cast off.
Repeat for the left leg border, working the picked up sts from the back stitch marker to the front st marker.
SIDE SEAMS & BUTTONS
Line up the side seams by matching the stitch markers on the front with the cast on edge at the back. Use mattress stitch to sew both side seams.
Sew two buttons onto the back of the romper on the waist band, each approx. 6[6,7] cm in from the side seams.
Weave in all loose ends.
PRESSING
Lay romper out flat, and press over damp cloth.
Alternative Yarns
The original pattern specifies Makr ORGANIC COTTON Yarn and also states that the romper can be made in Lincraft BABY 8PLY MERINO Yarn or Makr BABY SOFT 8PLY Yarn. When substituting another yarn, choose one that can achieve the appropriate tension for the selected fibre and needle combination.
Suitable Yarn Types
- 8ply organic cotton – closely matches the original cotton option and provides clear stitch definition.
- 8ply baby merino – provides warmth, softness and natural elasticity.
- Soft 8ply baby yarn – suitable for a gentle fabric intended for baby garments.
- 8ply cotton-acrylic blend – combines softness and structure with easier care.
- Machine-washable 8ply wool – suitable where warmth and easier laundering are preferred.
Customisation Ideas
- Choose a soft neutral colour for a classic baby romper.
- Use pastel shades for a traditional nursery palette.
- Select contrasting buttons to highlight the adjustable shoulder straps.
- Add simple embroidery to the front bib after knitting, taking care not to distort the fabric.
- Make coordinating accessories such as baby socks in the same yarn and colour.
To retain the original sizing and construction, keep all stitch counts, size brackets, short-row shaping, leg-opening shaping, bib decreases, strap lengths and button placement unchanged when making decorative customisations.
Care Instructions
Follow the washing and care instructions provided on the ball band of the yarn used.
- Ensure all ends are woven in securely before washing.
- Check that both buttons are firmly attached.
- Wash using the method and temperature recommended for the selected yarn.
- Use gentle washing suitable for baby garments.
- Avoid excessive agitation when using wool or fibres prone to felting.
- Gently reshape the romper, straps and leg borders while damp.
- Lay flat to dry where appropriate.