P362 Mumsy Slippers

P362 Mumsy Slippers

For keeping toes snug on chilly nights (or days), this easy slipper pattern is knitted similar to socks on double pointed needles, and makes a great gift for loved ones.

How to Knit the Mumsy Slippers

Keep your feet warm with these soft, low-cut knitted slippers. Worked in a similar way to socks, the slippers begin with a small heel flap before stitches are picked up around the heel and the foot is joined to work in the round.

The simple stocking-stitch construction and shaped toe make this a useful introduction to double-pointed needles. They also make a thoughtful handmade gift for chilly days and evenings.

Project: Mumsy Slippers

Pattern: P362

Craft type: Knitting

Difficulty: Easy

Finished Measurements

Size XS/S M/L
Approximate foot length 25 cm 27 cm
Approximate foot width 22 cm 25 cm

What You Will Need

Yarn

  • 1 ball of Makr Soft & Luxe yarn, 100 g

Needles and Equipment

  • One set of 5 mm double-pointed knitting needles
  • Wool or darning needle
  • Scissors
  • Removable stitch markers, if desired

Tension

Using 5 mm needles, work to the following blocked tension:

20 stitches and 28 rows over 10 cm in stocking stitch.

Knit and wash a tension square before beginning. Slippers need a close, comfortable fit, so a difference in tension can noticeably affect the finished size.

Abbreviations

  • Dec or dec’d: Decrease or decreased
  • K: Knit
  • K2tog: Knit two stitches together
  • P: Purl
  • RS: Right side
  • Sl: Slip one stitch purlwise
  • SSK: Slip one stitch knitwise, slip the next stitch knitwise, then knit the two slipped stitches together through the front
  • St or sts: Stitch or stitches
  • St st: Stocking stitch
  • WS: Wrong side
  • WYIB: With yarn in back
  • WYIF: With yarn in front

Construction Overview

The slippers are worked in the following stages:

  1. Knit a narrow heel flap.
  2. Pick up stitches around the heel to form a shallow foot opening.
  3. Work backwards and forwards to create the heel section.
  4. Cast on stitches across the top of the foot.
  5. Join the work and knit the foot in the round.
  6. Decrease evenly to shape the toe.
  7. Draw the final stitches together.
Helpful hint: Double-pointed needles can feel awkward at first. Keep the inactive needles resting underneath the work and concentrate on knitting with only the two active needles.

Cast On and Knit the Heel Flap

  1. Using the cable cast-on method, cast on 6 stitches.
  2. Beginning with a knit row, work in stocking stitch for:
    • XS/S: 16 rows
    • M/L: 18 rows
  3. With the right side facing, cast off across the row until one stitch remains on the right needle.
  4. Do not cut the yarn or fasten off.

Pick Up Stitches for the Heel

Turn the work a quarter turn clockwise and pick up stitches evenly along the first side edge:

  • XS/S: pick up and knit 12 stitches
  • M/L: pick up and knit 13 stitches

Turn the work another quarter turn and, using the second needle, pick up and knit 4 stitches along the cast-on edge.

Turn the work another quarter turn and, using the third needle, pick up and knit:

  • XS/S: 13 stitches
  • M/L: 14 stitches

You should now have:

  • XS/S: 30 stitches
  • M/L: 32 stitches

Work the Heel Section

Continue working backwards and forwards for approximately 9 cm, beginning with a wrong-side row and ending with a right-side row.

Repeat the following two rows:

  1. Wrong-side row: With yarn in front, slip the first two stitches, then purl to the end.
  2. Right-side row: With yarn in back, slip the first two stitches, then knit to the end.

Slipping the first two stitches creates a neat, slightly firmer edge around the heel opening.

Create the Top of the Foot

With the wrong side facing and continuing from Needle 3, use a firm cable cast-on to add:

  • XS/S: 11 stitches
  • M/L: 13 stitches

Turn the work to join in the round.

  1. With yarn in back, slip the first stitch from Needle 1 onto Needle 3.
  2. Pass the final cast-on stitch over the slipped stitch.

You should now have:

  • XS/S: 40 stitches
  • M/L: 44 stitches

Redistribute the stitches evenly over four needles, positioning the centre of the cast-on stitches as the new beginning of the round.

Before joining: Check that the stitches are not twisted around the needles. A twist cannot be corrected once several rounds have been knitted.

Knit the Foot

Knit every round until the slipper measures:

  • XS/S: approximately 4.5 cm shorter than the desired finished foot length
  • M/L: approximately 5 cm shorter than the desired finished foot length

Try the slipper on, or compare it with the intended wearer’s foot, before beginning the toe shaping.

Shape the Toe

Decrease Round

  1. Needle 1: Knit to the final three stitches, knit two together, knit one.
  2. Needle 2: Knit one, work an SSK, then knit to the end.
  3. Needles 3 and 4: Repeat the shaping used for Needles 1 and 2.

Next Round

Knit all stitches without decreasing.

Repeat the decrease round and plain knit round until 24 stitches remain, ending after a plain round.

Continue working the decrease round on every round until 8 stitches remain.

Close the Toe

  1. Cut the yarn, leaving a tail approximately 20 cm long.
  2. Thread the tail through a wool or darning needle.
  3. Pass the needle through the remaining eight stitches.
  4. Remove the knitting needles and pull the yarn firmly to close the toe.
  5. Secure the yarn on the inside and weave in the end.

Make the Second Slipper

Repeat the complete pattern to make the second slipper, checking the foot length before beginning the toe shaping so both slippers match.

Finishing

  1. Weave in all loose yarn ends securely.
  2. Gently shape both slippers to the same measurements.
  3. Block lightly according to the yarn-care instructions.
  4. Allow the slippers to dry completely before wearing.

Alternative Yarns for This Project

A suitable substitute should achieve 20 stitches and 28 rows over 10 cm on 5 mm needles and should be soft, warm and resilient enough for slippers.

  • 10 ply wool and acrylic blend – combines warmth, elasticity and easier washing.
  • 10 ply machine-washable wool – creates warm slippers with good shape recovery.
  • 10 ply anti-pilling acrylic – an affordable, easy-care option available in many colours.
  • Light 12 ply merino blend – may provide a soft, luxurious finish if it matches the required tension.
  • Cotton and wool blend – produces a cooler, firmer slipper suitable for milder weather.
  • Two strands of finer yarn held together – may be used when a single yarn does not produce the required thickness.

Choosing the Best Substitute

Select a smooth yarn with enough elasticity to hold its shape. Pure cotton may stretch during wear, while very soft chenille or loosely spun yarn may wear through quickly under the foot.

Wool blends are especially suitable because they provide warmth, recovery and some natural resistance to odour.

Important: Match the stated tension rather than relying only on the yarn’s ply description. Compare total metreage and make a washed tension square before beginning.

Optional Non-Slip Finish

Knitted slippers can be slippery on polished floors. For additional grip, apply a suitable non-slip fabric product to the soles or sew on a thin, flexible suede or felt sole.

Follow the manufacturer’s instructions and allow any applied product to dry completely before wearing.

Colour Ideas

  • Blush pink or dusty rose
  • Charcoal or soft grey
  • Cream, oatmeal or natural
  • Sage or forest green
  • Deep navy or burgundy
  • Contrasting toe and heel sections
  • Self-striping yarn for a colourful pair

Care

Follow the care instructions on the selected yarn label. Hand washing or a gentle machine cycle is generally recommended for knitted slippers.

Reshape while damp and dry flat. Avoid tumble drying unless the yarn label specifically permits it.

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