P379 Cropped Cardigan

P379 Cropped Cardigan

This cardigan is made on bigger needles with our organic cotton yarn to create a more open stitch for an airy and summery weight knit. It is made with separate fronts and back worked from the bottom up, knitted back and forth, and sewn together when finished. The ribbed band, buttonholes and V-neckline are knitted-in with the left and right fronts. Sleeves are made by picking up stitches around the armhole with a circular needle and worked down towards the cuff; first working back and forth then in the round on short circular needles and double pointed needles.

How to Knit a Cropped Cardigan

Knit a lightweight V-neck cardigan with a cropped shape, integrated ribbed front bands and long sleeves. The cardigan is worked in separate back and front pieces from the bottom upwards, then sewn together at the shoulders and sides.

The sleeves are picked up around the armholes and worked down towards the cuffs. They begin flat before being joined and completed in the round using a short circular needle and double-pointed needles.

Project Details

  • Project number: P379
  • Difficulty: Intermediate knit
  • Sizes: S, M and L
  • Construction: Separate fronts and back with picked-up sleeves
  • Neckline: V-neck
  • Closure: Buttoned front

Finished Measurements

  • Chest: 102 (108–118) cm
  • Finished back length indicated by the instructions: approximately 52 (54–56) cm
  • Sleeve length: approximately 51 cm from the armhole marker

Measurement Note

The measurement table on page 2 lists body lengths of 75, 80 and 85 cm, but the back and front instructions finish at 52, 54 and 56 cm. The shorter measurements are consistent with the cropped garment shown on page 1, so check the desired length against your body before casting off.

What You Will Need

Yarn

  • Makr Organic Cotton: 5 (6–6) × 100 g balls

Needles and Equipment

  • 6.50 mm circular knitting needle, approximately 40 cm long
  • 6.50 mm circular knitting needle, approximately 80 cm long
  • Set of 6.50 mm double-pointed needles
  • Stitch marker
  • Wool needle for sewing seams and weaving in ends
  • 3 two-hole buttons, approximately 22 mm

Alternative Yarns

Choose a smooth cotton, cotton-blend or light chunky yarn that can achieve the required tension of 14 stitches and 16 rows to 10 cm in stocking stitch using 6.50 mm needles.

  • Aran or 10 ply cotton: The closest alternative for recreating the breathable, summery fabric of the original cardigan.
  • Cotton and acrylic blend: Creates a lighter, more resilient cardigan with quicker drying and easier care.
  • Cotton and bamboo blend: Produces a softer cardigan with additional drape and a smooth finish.
  • Cotton and wool blend: Provides more elasticity and warmth while retaining breathability.
  • Light chunky acrylic: An easy-care alternative, although the finished cardigan may feel warmer and less breathable.

Avoid dense or very heavy yarns, as the design relies on larger needles to create an open, airy fabric. Match replacement yarn by total metreage rather than ball count and knit a washed tension square before beginning.

Tension

14 stitches and 16 rows to 10 cm over stocking stitch using 6.50 mm needles.

Knitting Abbreviations

  • Dec: decrease
  • K: knit
  • K2tog: knit two stitches together
  • Kw: knitwise
  • M1: make one stitch
  • P: purl
  • PSSO: pass slipped stitch over
  • Pw: purlwise
  • RS: right side
  • WS: wrong side
  • St or sts: stitch or stitches
  • Stst: stocking stitch
  • YO: yarn over

What Is Stocking Stitch?

Stocking stitch is created by knitting one row and purling the next when working flat. The knit side forms smooth V-shaped stitches, while the wrong side has horizontal purl bumps.

When stocking stitch is worked in the round, knit every round.

Understanding the Rib Pattern

The hem, cuffs and front bands use K2, P2 rib. This is formed by alternating two knit stitches and two purl stitches.

  • Right-side row: Repeat K2, P2 across the rib section.
  • Following row: Work each stitch as it appears, knitting the knit stitches and purling the purl stitches.

How to Make the Buttonholes

The buttonholes are worked into the right front band from the bottom upwards.

  1. On a right-side row, work to the sixth and seventh stitches from the front edge.
  2. Knit those two stitches together.
  3. Work a yarn over to replace the decreased stitch.
  4. On the following wrong-side row, purl into the yarn over to form the opening.

Buttonhole Positions

  • Size S: at approximately 8, 16 and 25 cm
  • Size M: at approximately 8, 17 and 26 cm
  • Size L: at approximately 7, 14, 21 and 28 cm

Button Note

The equipment list specifies three buttons, but the size L instructions list four buttonhole positions. For size L, either use four buttons or omit one buttonhole to suit your preferred spacing.

Understanding the V-Neck Decreases

All V-neck decreases are worked on right-side rows.

Right Front

Work the 13 front-band stitches, K1, slip 1 knitwise, K1, then pass the slipped stitch over.

Left Front

Work until 16 stitches remain, K2tog, K1, then work the final 13 front-band stitches.

Size Instructions

The first stitch count applies to size S. Figures in brackets apply to sizes M and L in that order.

Knit the Back

Work the Lower Ribbing

  1. Using the 6.50 mm circular needle, cast on 88 (92–100) stitches.
  2. Purl one wrong-side row.
  3. Next row: K1, *P2, K2; repeat from * until 3 stitches remain, P2, K1.
  4. Following row: K1, *K2, P2; repeat from * to the final stitch, K1.
  5. Continue in the established rib until it measures 8 cm.

Work the Main Back

  1. On the next right-side row, knit while decreasing 14 (14–16) stitches evenly.
  2. You should have 74 (78–84) stitches.
  3. Continue in stocking stitch, keeping one knit edge stitch at each side of every row.
  4. Work until the back measures 33 (34–35) cm.

Shape the Armholes

  1. Cast off 3 (4–6) stitches at the beginning of each of the next 2 rows.
  2. You should have 68 (70–72) stitches.
  3. Continue in stocking stitch until the back measures 49 (51–53) cm.

Shape the Back Neck

  1. Cast off the centre 14 (14–16) stitches.
  2. Complete each shoulder separately.
  3. At the neck edge, cast off 2 stitches once.
  4. Cast off 1 stitch at the neck edge twice.
  5. You should have 23 (24–24) shoulder stitches.
  6. Continue until the back measures 52 (54–56) cm.
  7. Cast off from the right side.
  8. Work the second shoulder to match.

Knit the Right Front

Work the Lower Rib and Buttonholes

  1. Cast on 56 (60–64) stitches.
  2. Purl one wrong-side row.
  3. Next row: K1, *K1, P2; repeat from * to the final 3 stitches, P2, K1.
  4. Following row: K1, *K2, P2; repeat from * to the final stitch, K1.
  5. Continue until the rib measures 8 cm.
  6. At the same time, work the buttonholes at the measurements listed for the selected size.

Set the Front Band and Body

  1. On the next right-side row, work K1, then K2, P2 rib over the next 12 stitches.
  2. Knit across the next 42 (46–50) stitches, decreasing 6 (8–9) stitches evenly.
  3. Knit the final edge stitch.
  4. You should have 50 (52–55) stitches.
  5. Continue with the 13-stitch ribbed band at the front edge and stocking stitch across the body.

Shape the V-Neck and Armhole

  1. When the front measures 27 (28–29) cm, begin the V-neck decreases.
  2. Decrease at the V-neck every 2 cm, 11 (11–12) times in total.
  3. At the same time, when the front measures 33 (34–35) cm, cast off 3 (4–6) stitches at the armhole edge on the next wrong-side row.
  4. After completing all neck and armhole shaping, 36 (37–37) stitches should remain.

Shape the Shoulder and Extend the Band

  1. Continue with the front band and stocking stitch until the front measures 52 (54–56) cm.
  2. On the next wrong-side row, cast off the first 23 (24–24) stitches for the shoulder.
  3. Continue over the front-band stitches for approximately 9 (9–10) cm.
  4. Cast off.

Knit the Left Front

Work the Lower Rib

  1. Cast on 56 (60–64) stitches.
  2. Purl one wrong-side row.
  3. Next row: K1, *K2, P2; repeat from * to the final 3 stitches, K2, K1.
  4. Following row: K1, *P2, K2; repeat from * to the final 3 stitches, P2, K1.
  5. Continue until the rib measures 8 cm.

Set the Body and Front Band

  1. On the next right-side row, K1.
  2. Knit across the next 42 (46–50) stitches, decreasing 6 (8–9) stitches evenly.
  3. Work K2, P2 rib over the next 12 stitches, then K1.
  4. You should have 50 (52–55) stitches.
  5. Continue with stocking stitch across the body and the 13-stitch ribbed band at the front edge.

Shape the V-Neck and Armhole

  1. When the front measures 27 (28–29) cm, begin the left-front V-neck decreases.
  2. Decrease every 2 cm, 11 (11–12) times in total.
  3. At the same time, when the front measures 33 (34–35) cm, cast off 3 (4–6) stitches at the armhole edge on the next right-side row.
  4. After all shaping, 36 (37–37) stitches should remain.

Shape the Shoulder and Extend the Band

  1. Continue until the front measures 52 (54–56) cm.
  2. On the next right-side row, cast off the first 23 (24–24) stitches for the shoulder.
  3. Continue over the band stitches for approximately 9 (9–10) cm.
  4. Cast off.

Join the Shoulders

  1. Block the front and back pieces lightly before assembly if needed.
  2. Join the shoulder seams using mattress stitch or another flat seam.
  3. Keep the edges aligned without stretching the cotton fabric.

Knit the Sleeves

Make two matching sleeves.

Pick Up the Sleeve Stitches

  1. With the right side facing and using the 6.50 mm circular needle, begin at the bottom of the armhole.
  2. Pick up and knit 53 (56–59) stitches evenly around the armhole.
  3. Place a marker in the centre of the row. Measure the sleeve length from this marker.
  4. Work backwards and forwards in stocking stitch until the sleeve measures 1 (2–4) cm from the marker.

Join the Sleeve in the Round

  1. Transfer the work to the short circular needle.
  2. Join to work in the round, taking care not to twist the stitches.
  3. Place a marker at the beginning of the round beneath the sleeve.
  4. Knit every round to continue stocking stitch.

Shape the Sleeve

  1. When the sleeve measures 3 (3–1) cm, decrease 2 stitches beneath the sleeve.
  2. Work to 3 stitches before the marker, K2tog, K2 with the marker between those 2 stitches, slip 1 knitwise, K1, then pass the slipped stitch over.
  3. Repeat this decrease every 4.5 (4.5–4) cm, 8 (8–9) times in total.
  4. You should have 37 (40–41) stitches.
  5. Continue until the sleeve measures 43 cm from the armhole marker.

Work the Cuff

  1. Knit one round while increasing 11 (12–11) stitches evenly.
  2. You should have 48 (52–52) stitches.
  3. Transfer the stitches to the double-pointed needles.
  4. Work K2, P2 rib for 8 cm.
  5. Cast off loosely in rib.
  6. The completed sleeve should measure approximately 51 cm from the armhole marker.

Finish the Cardigan

  1. Sew the short openings at the bottoms of the armholes.
  2. Join the side seams inside the one-stitch edge allowance.
  3. Join the two extended front-band ends at the centre back.
  4. Sew the joined band neatly around the back neckline.
  5. Sew the buttons securely to the left front, aligning them with the buttonholes.
  6. Weave in all loose yarn ends.
  7. Gently block the cardigan according to the yarn care instructions.

Helpful Tips

Cotton has less elasticity than wool, so avoid stretching the pieces while sewing the shoulder, side and neckline seams.

Place markers at each V-neck decrease and tick off every decrease as it is completed. The neckline and armhole shaping are worked at the same time.

When picking up the sleeve stitches, distribute them evenly around the armhole to prevent gathers or tight sections.

Check the cardigan length against the wearer before beginning the armhole shaping. The measurement table and written instructions provide conflicting body lengths.

Use a loose cast-off at the cuffs so they remain comfortable and easy to pull over the hands.

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