P336 Cotton T & Shorts

How to Knit the Cotton T & Shorts

Knit a relaxed coordinating T-shirt and shorts set using Makr Organic Cotton. The T is worked seamlessly from the top down in the round, while the shorts are worked flat in two leg pieces before being seamed and finished with a tubular waistband and knitted drawstring.

The pattern includes sizes S, M, L and XL and is designed with a relaxed, oversized fit.

The shorts are worked separately, knitted flat, with a slight increase on the sides for the hips. There are no decreases to fit the waist in order to emphasize the relaxed fit. The two pieces will be seamed together. To complete the shorts a waistband is worked in the rounds and will hold the drawstring. Length can be customised.

The model is wearing sizes medium.

Measurements (CM)

Yarn Required

Needles and Equipment

• 1 pair of 4mm circular needles in lengths: 40cm, 60cm, 90cm
• 1 pair 4mm double pointed needles for shorts drawstring
• 8 stitch markers (for Tee: 7 regular for raglan sts and 1 unique for end-of-round)
• 1 sitch marker (for Shorts)
• Extra cable or lifeline to hold stitches
• Wool needle for sewing in ends

Tension

22 st x 28 rows on stocking stitch = 10cm x 10cm

Knitting Abbreviations

• Bo bind off
• Cm centimetres
• CO cast on
• GSR German short rows
• K knit
• K1tbl Knit 1 stitch through the back loop (a twisted stitch)
• K2tog knit 2 stitches together
• K2togtbl knit 2 stitches together through back of loop
• Kfb knit 1 into front and back of stitch (single knit increase)
• Knit stitch single left-leaning decrease
• M1L make 1 left (single left-leaning knit increase)
• M1R make 1 right (single right-leaning knit increase)
• P purl
• P1tbl purl 1 stitch through the back loop (a twisted stitch)
• P2tog purl 2 stitches together
• P2togtbl purl 2 stitches together through back of loop
• Pm place marker
• Rem remain(ing)
• Rs right side (front of work)
• Rnd(s) round(s)
• Skp slip 1 knitwise, knit 1, pass slip st over
• Sl slip stitch
• Sm(s) stitch markers
• Ssm slip the stitch marker over; keeping the position of the stitch marker in the same place throughout the work
• Stst stocking Stitch (alternatively k 1 row and p 1 row)
• St(s) stitch(es)
• Ws wrong side (back of work)
• Wyif with yarn in front
• Wyib with yarn in back
• Yo2 yarn over 2

T

NOTES:

On Technique:

Invisible Join Technique on Circular Needles: a method to create a seamless join in the round.

German Short Rows (GSR): Creates shaping for the back neck/shoulders of the tee.

1x1 Twisted Ribbing: created by alternating 1 knit st through the back loop (k1tbl) with 1 purl stitch through the back loop (p1tbl); worked for the neck/collar, sleeve cuffs, and bottom of the tee.

Pw wyif: purl-wise with the working yarn in the front of the work (refers to the method of slipping a st).

Ribbing Bind off: creates a more stretchy bind off edge.

COLLAR / NECK

With 40cm circular needles CO (98,98,98,100) sts. Join in the round.

If joining in the round using the Invisible Join Technique, then first cast on (99,99,99,101) sts. Place unique end- of-round st marker to mark the end of each round.

[98,98,98,100] sts rem

Row 1-5: *k1tbl, p1tbl, repeat from * around.

Row 6: Knitting in the round; placing st markers to divide the front and back panels and sleeves;

Place a unique end-of-round stitch marker, k1, pm, k(11,11,11,12), pm, k1, pm, k(36,36,36,36), pm, k1, pm, k(11,11,11,12), k1, pm, k(36,36,36,36).

[98,98,98,100] sts rem

Note: The raglan sts are located inside the st markers. One raglan st is flanked by two stitch markers.

German Short Rows:

Only some of the sts in a round will be worked before turning the work over and working back in the other direction on the WS of the work (i.e. “short rows”) This creates neck shaping for the back neck/shoulders of the tee, which results in a scooped neckline in the front.

STEP 1

Row 1 (RS) K1, ssm, m1l, k to the next sm, m1r, ssm, k1, ssm, m1l, k2*. Turn the work and wrap the first stitch via the GSR Technique.

(3 sts increased)

Wrapping the stitch via the GSR technique on the RS: Slip the first stitch o the left knitting needle onto the right knitting needle pm wyif. Pull the working yarn up and over the slipped stitch that is now the right knitting needle (i.e. wrapping the st).

Row 2. Purl to end-of-round st marker. Slip over the end-of-round st marker, m1r, purl to the next sm: m1l, ssm, p1, ssm, m1r, purl to the next ssm, m1l, ssm, p1, ssm, m1r, p2*. Turn the work and wrap the first st via the GSR Technique.

(5 sts increased)

Wrapping the stitch via the GSR techniqe on the WS: Slip the first st on the left kitting needle onto the right knitting needle pw wyif. Pull the working yarn up and over the slipped st that is now on the right knitting needle (i.e. wrapping the st).

Row 3 (RS) Knit back to the end-of-round stitch marker.

(0 sts increased)

STEP 2

Row 1 (RS) Repeat Step 1 Row 1 (RS) above up to the *, then k up to the wrapped GSR stitch and k the GSR st. Then K(2,2,2,2) past the knitted GSR st. Turn the work and wrap the first st via the GSR Technique.

(3 sts increased)

Row 2 (WS) Repeat Step 1 Row 2 (WS) above up to the *, then purl up to the wrapped GSR st, and purl the GSR st. Then P(2,2,2,2) past the purled GSR st. Turn the work and wrap the first st via the GSR technique.

(5 sts increased)

Row 3(RS) Knit back to the end-of-round st marker.

(0 sts increased)

Repeat Step 2 Rows 1-3 above (5,6,6,6) more times.

[154,162,162,164] sts rem

YOKE

RAGLAN INCREASES

Work increase rounds to grow the yoke of the tee larger. An increase round will be worked every other round by increasing on either side of each raglan st with a m1l and m1r. Eight sts are increased on every increase round.

Yoke Rnd 1 (and all odd-numbered rnds / an increase rnd)

K1, ssm, m1l, k to the next sm, m1r, ssm, k1, ssm, m1l, k to the next sm, m1r, ssm, k1, ssm, m1l, k to the next sm, m1r, ssm, k1, ssm, m1l, k to the end-of-round st marker and work a m1r right before it.

[162, 170,170,172] sts rem

Yoke Rnd 2 Knit all the sts in the round (i.e. stst).

[162, 170, 170,172] sts rem

Yoke Rnd 3 - Rnd (44, 46, 50,56)

Repeat Yoke Rnds 1 and 2.

[330, 346, 362,388] sts rem

Switch out the needles lengths from 40cm to 60cm and 90cm to accomodate the growing sts as more rnds of the Tee are knitted.

SLEEVE DIVISION & BODY

The sleeve stitches will be separated from the body of the Tee. You will be slipping all the live (sleeve) stitches onto scrap yarn to hold and work on later. The rest of the body will continue to be worked in the round:

STEP 1.

Remove the end-of-round st marker. K1 (the raglan st), then remove the next st marker.

- Slip the sleeve sts (not including the next raglan st) onto scrap yarn using the darning/tapestry needle.

- Cast on 6 sts via Single Cast On at the underarm and join via the Invisible Join Technique.

[5 sleeve sts rem]

- K the body sts, which include the raglan sts.

- When the other sleeve is reached, slip those sleeve sts onto scrap yarn (not including any raglan sts) in the same manner.

- Cast on 6 sts via Single Cast On and join via the Invisible Join Technique.

[5 sleeve sts rem]

- K the body sts, which include the raglan sts.

- Remove the last st marker and replace it with the unique end-of-round st marker.

[69,73,77,84]

Notes:

- During this portion of the pattern, take off the rest of the st markers as the round is worked, keeping only the unique end-of-round st marker.

- The body sts include the raglan sts, therefore, do not slip the raglan sts onto the scrap yarn with the rest of the sleeve sts. Instead, knit the raglan sts with the body sts.

STEP 2.

- Continue knitting the body of the tee in stst (i.e. knitting every st in the round) until the length starting at the underarm reaches approx 28cm, 29cm, 30cm, 30.5cm.

[202, 210, 218,230] body sts rem

BOTTOM RIBBING

Set up: Knit all the sts around while decreasing (2,2,2,2) sts via k2tog. (space out k2tog decrease sts as evenly as possible)

[200, 208, 216,226] body sts rem.

Rnd 1-6 Make sure there is an even amount of sts. If not decrease one.

K1tbl, p1tbl, repeat from * around (i.e. 1x1 twisted rib)

[200,208,216,226] body sts rem.

Rnd 7 Bind off all sts in ribbing. Break yarn and weave in loose ends.

SLEEVES

Set up: With 40cm circular needles pick up 8 sts at the underarm, and then pick up the rest of the arm sts that were held on the scrap yarn.

- Remove the scrap yarn, and then join at the underarm using the Invisible Join Technique so that 7 sts remain at the underarm.

- Place the unique end-of-round st marker.

[76,80,84,91] sts on each sleeve rem.

Rnd 1-10 Knit all the sts in the round (i.e. stst).

[76,80,84,91] sleeve sts rem.

Rnd 11-13 *k1tbl, p1tbl, repeat from * around (i.e., 1x twisted rib).

[76,80,84,91] sleeve sts rem.

Rnd 14 Bind off all sts in ribbing. Break yarn and weave in any loose ends.

SHORTS

NOTES:

On Technique:

DECREASES FOR CROTCH AND INCREASES FOR HIP

Single decreases are worked on RS in the beginning and at the end of each row. To decrease on the right, slip 1 (side edging), skp, continue row. On the left, knit until 3 sts before end of row, k2tog, k1 (side edging).

Single increases are worked on RS before and after the st marker that separates front from back portion. To increase on the right, knit until 1 st before st marker, M1L, continue row. On the left, knit until 1 st after st marker, M1R, continue row.

SIDE EDGING

All pieces are worked flat and have the same side edging: In every row, regardless if right or wrong side, slip first st wyib in the beginning and k last st of the row. This creates an edging with little “knots” that are a great base for seaming.

BINDING OFF FOR CROTCH

Bind off in the beginning of each row, on RS and WS. That means you will bind off only on one side of each row. The difference in height is barely noticeable.

RIGHT LEG

Using the tubular method, cast on (132, 144, 156, 168) sts.

Row 1-4 Tubular 1x1 rib stitch:

Slip 1, *k1, slip 1wyif*, repeat * until end of row.

Note for first row: the knit sts are twisted, k them through the back loop. Stitches on WS facing are worked as they appear: K k stitches, slip wyif purl stitches.

Row 5-10 Work k1, p1 rib st.

Row 11-22 Work stst.

Row 23 K (62,68,74,80) place st marker (distinction front and back part of leg), k until end of row.

Row 24 Continue in stst for (10,12,14,16) cm.

Crotch Shaping

For this leg, the right side will be the front of the shorts, and the left side will be the back.

Row 1 At the right of RS facing: Bind off (2,3,3,3). K until end of row.

Row 2 At the right of WS facing: Bind off (6,8,8,8). P until end of row, k last st.

Row 3 At the right of RS facing : Sl 1, skp, k until end of row.

Row 4 At the right of WS facing: Bind off 3 (all sizes), p until end of row, k last st.

- At the right and left of RS facing, single decrease every 2 rows.

- Over the next (2,2,4,4) rows make (1,1,1,1) single decrease at the right and (1,2,2,2) single decreases at the left.

- At the right and left of RS facing, single decrease every 4 rows.

- Over the next 12 (all sizes) rows, make (2,3,3,3) single decreases at the right and 3 (all sizes) single decreases at the left.

Hip Shaping

Size S do not increase. Work 4 rows in stst before moving into “second set of crotch shaping”.

- Before st marker of RS facing, single increase every 2 rows:

Over the next (0,2,4,4) rows make (0,1,2,2) single increases before stitch marker.

- Before and after st marker of RS facing, single increase every 2 rows:

Over the next (0,2,2,2) rows, make (0,1,1,1) single increases before st marker and (0,1,1,1) single increases after st marker.

- After st marker of RS facing, single increase ev 2 rows:

Over the next (0,2,4,4) rows, make (0,1,2,2) single increases after st marker.

Second Set of Crotch Shaping

- At the left of RS facing, single decrease every 6 rows:

Over the next 30 (all sizes) rows, make 5 (all sizes) single decreases at the left.

- Continue in stst without further shaping for (2,3,3,4)cm, reaching a length of (21,22,23,24) cm after beginning of crotch.

- Keep sts on cable or insert a lifeline thread and remove only the needles before moving on to the next leg.

LEFT LEG

- Follow the instructions for the right leg until reaching the point where you place the stitch marker.

- Place it after (70,76,82,88) sts and continue in stst for the same length as right leg - the back of the shorts is now at the right of RS facing.

- For the rest of the shaping, switch the order of right and left decreases.

First Set of Crotch Shaping

Row 1 At the right of RS facing;

Bind off (6,8,8,8). K until end of row.

Row 2 At the right of WS facing;

Bind off (2,3,3,3). P until end of row, k last st.

Row 3 At the right and left of RS facing;

Bind off 3 (all sizes), k until 3 sts before end of row, k2tog, k last st.

Row 4 No decreases;

Slip 1 (side edging), purl until end of row, k last st.

- At the right and left of RS facing, single decrease every 2 rows;

Over next (2,2,4,4) rows, make (1,1,2,2) single decreases at the right and (0,1,1,1) single decreases at the left.

- At the right and left of RS facing, single decrease every 4 rows;

Over the next 12 (all sizes) rows, make 3 (all sizes) single decreases at the right and (2,3,3,3) single decreases at the left.

Work Hip Shaping and Second Set of Crotch Shaping as per Right Leg.

Continue in stst without further shaping for the same length as the right leg. Do not cut yarn.

Keeping all stst on needles/cable/lifeline, seam the insides of each leg and seam front and back parts to connect both legs.

Waist Band

Pick up the yarn from the left leg - this is the centre back of shorts - Work 20 rounds in tubular 1/1 rib st to create a tube that will later contain the drawstring.

Rnd 1 and all odd rounds:

*k1, sl 1 purlwise wyif*, repeat * until end of rnd. Place sm at the end of the first rnd.

Rnd 2 and all even rounds:

*sl1 knitwise wyib, p1*, repeat * until end of round.

Rnd 3-10 Repeat rnds 1 and 2.

Rnd 11 During this rnd for the holes to insert drawstring, 8 sts before front centre;

k2tog, yo2, skp, continue rnd.

Rnd 12 Coninue tubular rib st. Work wraps from previous round according to sts, either 1k1p or 1p1k.

Rnd 13-20 Repeat rnds 1 and 2.

To Finish

Bind off using a tapestry needle.

Weave in ends. Wash and block.

Waist Band

Create drawstring using 2DP needles:

Cast on 3 sts, k3, push sts back to beginning of needle (do not turn around) and k3.

Continue until reaching desired length to fit around waist/ upper hip. Add an additional 20cm of length to be able to tie a bow.

Cut yarn and weave in ends. Insert drawstring into waistband through holes on front side.

Alternative Yarns

The original pattern uses Makr ORGANIC COTTON Yarn. When choosing an alternative yarn, select a yarn that can achieve the original tension of 22 st x 28 rows on stocking stitch = 10cm x 10cm using 4mm needles.

Suitable Yarn Types

• 8ply cotton yarn – the closest substitute for the original, providing structure and good stitch definition.
• Organic cotton yarn – suitable for recreating the natural fibre feel of the original project.
• Cotton-bamboo blend – may create a softer fabric with additional drape.
• Cotton-acrylic blend – can provide easier care while retaining useful structure.
• Recycled cotton blend – may be suitable provided the required tension and finished drape are achieved.

Customisation Ideas

• Adjust the shorts length as noted in the original pattern.
• Choose a neutral shade for a versatile matching set.
• Use contrasting colours for the T and shorts while keeping the original construction unchanged.
• Use a contrasting drawstring for a small colour accent at the waist.
• Make only the T or only the shorts as separate wardrobe pieces.

To retain the original sizing and construction, keep all stitch counts, size brackets, German short-row instructions, raglan increases, crotch shaping and hip shaping unchanged when making colour or fibre customisations.

Care Instructions

Follow the washing and care instructions provided on the ball band of the yarn used.

1. Weave in all loose ends securely before washing.
2. Wash using the method and temperature recommended for the selected yarn.
3. Avoid excessive heat that may shrink or distort cotton fibres.
4. Gently reshape the T, sleeves, shorts and waistband while damp.
5. Lay flat to dry where appropriate.
6. Block the finished pieces to help restore the intended measurements and shape.