A simple and easy to knit garment, this pattern includes delicate shaping at the centre front and back to give a slight A-line silhouette. The i-cord bind off finishes this item of beautifully but it can be left without if desired. A great item for layering during the winter months but can also be worn alone during summer due to a looser fit, if knitted up in our Makr Cotton 4ply.
How to Knit a Girl’s Pinafore with a Fold-Up Hem
This simple knitted pinafore features a gentle A-line shape, a neat folded hem and smooth i-cord edging around the armholes and neckline. Designed as an easy layering piece, it can be worn over a long-sleeved top in cooler weather or styled on its own in a breathable cotton yarn during summer.
The front and back are worked separately from the lower edge upwards, with gradual decreases creating the softly shaped silhouette. The shoulders and neckline are shaped separately before the garment is sewn together and finished with applied i-cord edging.
Project: Girl’s Pinafore with Fold-Up Hem
Pattern: P087
Craft type: Knitting
Difficulty: Easy
Sizes and Finished Measurements
| Size | 12 months | 2 years | 4 years | 6–7 years |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Finished chest | 60 cm | 64 cm | 68 cm | 72 cm |
| Finished hem | 74 cm | 78 cm | 82 cm | 86 cm |
| Approximate length | 37 cm | 41 cm | 45 cm | 48 cm |
What You Will Need
Yarn
The pattern provides two yarn options:
| Yarn | 12 months | 2 years | 4 years | 6–7 years |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Ficio Baby Merino, 50 g balls | 3 | 4 | 5 | 5 |
| Makr Cotton 4 Ply, 100 g balls | 2 | 2 | 3 | 3 |
Needles and Equipment
- One pair of 3.25 mm knitting needles
- One 3.25 mm circular needle, approximately 80 cm long
- One set of 3.25 mm double-pointed needles
- Stitch holder
- Stitch markers
- Wool needle for sewing seams and weaving in ends
- Scissors
Tension
Using 3.25 mm needles, work to the following tension:
28 stitches and 36 rows over 10 cm in stocking stitch.
Always knit and wash a tension square before beginning. A difference in tension will affect the chest measurement, garment length and amount of yarn required.
Abbreviations
- K: Knit
- P: Purl
- K2tog: Knit two stitches together
- K3tog: Knit three stitches together
- Kfb: Knit into the front and back of the same stitch
- P2tog: Purl two stitches together
- Pfb: Purl into the front and back of the same stitch
- Sl1: Slip one stitch purlwise
- wyif: With yarn in front
- wyib: With yarn in back
- SSK: Slip, slip, knit to create a left-slanting decrease
- RS: Right side
- WS: Wrong side
Construction Overview
The pinafore is knitted in the following stages:
- Knit the back from the lower edge to the shoulders.
- Knit the front to match, adding neckline shaping.
- Join the shoulder seams.
- Add i-cord edging around both armholes.
- Add i-cord edging and a small loop around the neckline.
- Join the side seams.
- Fold and sew the lower hem into position.
Begin the Back
Using 3.25 mm needles, cast on the required number of stitches for the selected size:
- 12 months: 103 stitches
- 2 years: 109 stitches
- 4 years: 115 stitches
- 6–7 years: 121 stitches
Begin in stocking stitch. When the work measures 3 cm from the cast-on edge, place a marker at each side to identify the fold line for the hem.
Continue in stocking stitch until the work measures 10, 11, 12 or 13 cm, depending on the selected size.
Create the A-Line Shaping
The gradual A-line shape is created by decreasing four stitches across selected right-side rows.
Each decrease row includes:
- One left-slanting decrease near the beginning of the row
- One three-stitch decrease at the centre
- One right-slanting decrease near the end of the row
Work seven rows without shaping between decrease rows. Continue decreasing every eighth row until the required stitch count remains.
Work to the Underarms
Continue without further shaping until the piece reaches the required length to the underarms. Remember that the finished garment includes a 3 cm folded hem.
Cast off the required number of stitches at the beginning of the next two rows to form the underarm edges.
Shape the Back Shoulders
Divide the remaining stitches and work each shoulder separately.
Slip the first stitch of each row to create a neat edge. Work straight until the armhole reaches the required depth, then cast off the shoulder stitches in stages.
Return the held stitches to the needle and repeat for the second shoulder.
Knit the Front
Work the front in the same way as the back through the A-line shaping, lower body and underarm cast-off.
Continue straight until the armholes reach the specified depth, then divide the work for the neckline.
Shape the Front Neckline
Work the first shoulder section separately and decrease one stitch at the neckline edge on alternate rows.
At the same time, shape the shoulder by casting off stitches at the armhole edge as directed.
Place the held stitches back onto the needles, cast off the centre neckline stitches and complete the second shoulder to match.
Join the Shoulder Seams
Place the front and back together with the right sides facing and sew the shoulder seams neatly.
Check that the armhole and neckline edges align before securing the yarn ends.
Add the Armhole I-Cord Edging
Using the 3.25 mm circular needle and with the wrong side facing, pick up and purl stitches evenly around one armhole.
To work the applied i-cord bind-off:
- Cast on two additional stitches.
- Knit two stitches.
- Work an SSK using the next picked-up stitch.
- Slip the three stitches back to the left needle purlwise.
- Repeat until all picked-up armhole stitches have been incorporated.
- Finish by knitting the final three stitches together.
Repeat the same process around the second armhole.
Add the Neckband and Back Loop
With the wrong side facing, pick up and purl the required number of stitches evenly around the neckline.
Work the same applied i-cord bind-off until four stitches remain.
Transfer the remaining stitches to a double-pointed needle and continue working a short i-cord approximately 5 cm long. This forms the small loop at the back neckline.
Secure the end of the loop to the beginning of the i-cord edging.
Finish the Fold-Up Hem
- Join the side seams.
- Fold the lower 3 cm section to the inside along the marked fold line.
- Sew the cast-on edge loosely to the inside of the garment using whip stitch.
- Keep the sewing tension relaxed so the lower edge does not gather.
Alternative Yarns for This Project
A substitute should be able to achieve 28 stitches and 36 rows over 10 cm on 3.25 mm needles. This is typically associated with a smooth 4 ply or fingering-weight yarn.
- Machine-washable baby merino 4 ply – creates a soft, warm and elastic winter garment.
- Merino and nylon blend 4 ply – adds durability while retaining softness and stretch.
- Superfine wool 4 ply – provides warmth and excellent stitch definition.
- Cotton 4 ply – creates a cooler, breathable pinafore suitable for warm-weather layering.
- Cotton and bamboo 4 ply – produces a soft garment with extra drape and a smooth finish.
- Baby acrylic 4 ply – an affordable, easy-care option available in a wide range of colours.
Choosing the Best Substitute
For a winter version, choose a soft machine-washable merino or wool blend. For a summer pinafore, choose cotton or a cotton-bamboo blend.
The yarn should be smooth enough to show the neat stocking stitch and i-cord edging. Avoid fluffy or highly textured yarns, as these may obscure the shaping and make the picked-up edges harder to work.
Colour Ideas
- Soft grey or pale blue for a classic neutral style
- Blush, lilac or dusty rose
- Sage or eucalyptus green
- Cream or natural cotton
- Mustard or terracotta for an autumn look
- A contrasting i-cord edge for a playful finish
Care
Follow the care instructions on the chosen yarn label. Gently wash and reshape the pinafore to its finished measurements.
Dry flat and avoid hanging the wet garment, as this may stretch the shoulders, neckline and A-line body.
