P349 Baby Summer Set

How to Knit a Baby Summer Set

Knit a sweet coordinating summer outfit featuring striped bloomers and a sleeveless singlet. Designed in breathable organic cotton, the set combines simple stocking stitch with two-row stripes, twisted rib borders and neat finishing details.

The bloomers are knitted as separate front and back pieces from the crotch upwards. Stitches are increased to shape the leg openings, then decreased gradually through the hips. A ribbed waistband with eyelets holds a knitted i-cord tie.

The singlet is worked from the lower edge upwards, beginning with a striped hem before continuing in a solid colour. The front and back are shaped separately, then finished with twisted-rib armhole and neckline borders and buttoned shoulder openings.

Sizes and Finished Measurements

What You Will Need

Yarn

The original set uses Makr Organic Cotton in 100 g balls:

Needles and Equipment

• 3.5 mm knitting needles for the main fabric
• 3 mm knitting needles for borders and ribbing
• 3 mm double-pointed needles for the i-cord
• Wool needle for seaming and weaving in ends
• Four 11 mm buttons, approximately size 18
• Stitch holders or waste yarn
• Stitch markers, if desired
• Scissors

Tension

The source lists:

22 stitches and 18 rows over 10 cm in stocking stitch.

Abbreviations

• G st: Garter stitch; knit every row
• K: Knit
• P: Purl
• K2tog: Knit two stitches together
• Kfb: Knit into the front and back of one stitch
• Ktbl: Knit through the back loop
• M1: Make one stitch
• P2tog: Purl two stitches together
• Ptbl: Purl through the back loop
• Psso: Pass slipped stitch over
• RS: Right side
• WS: Wrong side
• Sl: Slip one stitch
• SSK: Slip, slip, knit
• St or sts: Stitch or stitches
• St st: Stocking stitch
• Yo: Yarn over

How to Work Twisted Rib

Twisted rib is worked like standard knit-one, purl-one rib, but each stitch is worked through its back loop.

On right-side rows, alternate knit through the back loop and purl through the back loop. On wrong-side rows, reverse the sequence while continuing to work each stitch through its back loop.

This creates a neat, firm rib that is especially suitable for baby waistbands, leg openings, armholes and necklines.

Construction Overview

The set is completed in two main sections:

1. Knit the front and back of the bloomers, join them, add the leg borders and make the i-cord waist tie.
2. Knit the front and back of the singlet, seam the sides, finish the armholes and necklines, then attach the shoulder buttons.

Bloomers

Knit the Front Crotch Section

Using 3.5 mm needles, cast on:

• 6 months: 17 stitches
• 9 months: 19 stitches
• 12 months: 19 stitches

Work six rows in stocking stitch, beginning with a knit row and ending with a purl row.

Increase for the Front Leg Openings

On the next right-side row:

1. Knit into the front and back of the first stitch.
2. Knit to the final stitch.
3. Knit into the front and back of the final stitch.

Purl the following row.

Repeat these two rows until you have:

• 6 months: 31 stitches
• 9 months: 33 stitches
• 12 months: 35 stitches

Widen the Front

1. At the beginning of the next right-side row, cast on 15 stitches and knit across.
2. At the beginning of the next wrong-side row, cast on 15 stitches and purl across.

You should now have:

• 6 months: 61 stitches
• 9 months: 63 stitches
• 12 months: 65 stitches

Continue in stocking stitch until the work measures approximately 8, 9 or 10 cm from the beginning, depending on the selected size.

Shape the Front Hips

Work the following eight-row sequence:

1. Right side: work one SSK, knit to the final two stitches, then knit two together.
2. Wrong side: purl.
3. Right side: knit.
4. Wrong side: purl.
5. Right side: knit.
6. Wrong side: purl.
7. Right side: knit.
8. Wrong side: purl.

Repeat this eight-row sequence twice more.

Change colours every two rows and continue the shaping until 55, 57 or 59 stitches remain.

Work the Front Waistband

Change to 3 mm needles and Colour 2.

Work 12 rows of knit-one, purl-one rib, maintaining the rib sequence on both right- and wrong-side rows.

On Row 7, create the i-cord eyelets:

1. Knit one and purl one.
2. Repeat knit two together, yarn over, knit one and purl one across the row.
3. Knit the final stitch.

Cast off in rib, leaving a long yarn tail for the side seam.

Knit the Back of the Bloomers

Using 3.5 mm needles, cast on the same number of stitches as for the front.

Work ten rows in stocking stitch before beginning the paired increases.

Increase at both ends of the next right-side row, then purl the following row. Repeat until you have 31, 33 or 35 stitches.

Cast on 15 stitches at the beginning of each of the next two rows to reach 61, 63 or 65 stitches.

Continue until the back measures approximately 9, 10 or 11 cm from the beginning.

Shape the Back Hips and Waist

Work the same eight-row decrease sequence used for the front, repeating it three times in total.

Change colours every two rows and continue until 55, 57 or 59 stitches remain.

Change to 3 mm needles and Colour 2, then work the same 12-row ribbed waistband with the eyelet row on Row 7.

Cast off in pattern, leaving a long tail for seaming.

Join the Bloomers

1. Lightly steam or block the front and back pieces.
2. Place the pieces together with right sides facing.
3. Join the lower crotch edges using an invisible horizontal seam.
4. Pin and sew the side seams with backstitch, using the long yarn tails.
5. Weave in all loose yarn ends.

Add the Leg Borders

Using Colour 1 and 3 mm needles, pick up approximately:

• 6 months: 61 stitches
• 9 months: 63 stitches
• 12 months: 65 stitches

An exact count is not essential, but use an odd number and pick up the same number around both leg openings.

Beginning on the wrong side, work seven rows of twisted knit-one, purl-one rib. Cast off in pattern on the right side.

Make the I-Cord Tie

1. Using 3 mm double-pointed needles and Colour 2, cast on two stitches.
2. Knit both stitches.
3. Do not turn the work. Slide the stitches back to the beginning of the needle.
4. Carry the yarn firmly across the back and knit both stitches again.
5. Repeat until the cord measures approximately 50 cm.
6. Cast off and weave in the ends.

Thread the i-cord through the waistband eyelets and tie it at the centre front.

Singlet

Knit the Singlet Front

Using Colour 1 and 3 mm needles, cast on:

• 6 months: 55 stitches
• 9 months: 61 stitches
• 12 months: 67 stitches

Work six rows of twisted knit-one, purl-one rib.

Change to Colour 2 and work 16 rows in stocking stitch, alternating colours every two rows.

Continue in Colour 2 only for a further:

• 6 months: 22 rows
• 9 months: 24 rows
• 12 months: 26 rows

Shape the Front Armholes

1. Cast off 4, 5 or 6 stitches at the beginning of the next right-side row.
2. Cast off the same number at the beginning of the next wrong-side row.
3. On the next right-side row, work one SSK, knit across and knit two together at the end.
4. Purl the following row.
5. Repeat the paired decrease once more.

You should have 43, 47 or 51 stitches.

Continue in stocking stitch for 16, 18 or 20 rows.

Shape the Front Neckline

Knit 14 stitches, cast off the central 15, 19 or 23 stitches, then knit the remaining 14 stitches.

Work each shoulder separately.

On the first shoulder, decrease one stitch at the neckline edge on each right-side row until 11 stitches remain.

Change to 3 mm needles and work three rows of twisted rib. Cast off in pattern.

Rejoin the yarn to the second shoulder and work matching decreases at the neckline edge. Finish with three rows of twisted rib and cast off.

Finish the Front Neckline

Using 3 mm needles, pick up approximately 37, 41 or 45 stitches around the front neckline.

Work three rows of twisted rib and cast off in pattern.

Knit the Singlet Back

The source lists a cast-on of 55, 61 or 63 stitches. However, the later armhole counts appear to correspond with 55, 61 or 67 stitches.

Work six rows of twisted rib in Colour 1.

Change to Colour 2 and work 16 rows of two-row stripes, followed by 22, 24 or 26 rows in Colour 2.

Shape the Back Armholes

1. Cast off 4, 5 or 6 stitches at the beginning of the next two rows.
2. Work paired decreases at both ends of three right-side rows, with purl rows between.

Continue in stocking stitch for 20, 22 or 24 rows.

Shape the Back Neckline

Knit 12 stitches, cast off the central 17, 21 or 25 stitches, then knit the remaining 12 stitches.

Work each shoulder separately, decreasing one stitch at the neckline edge so that 11 stitches remain. Complete the second shoulder to match and cast off.

Assemble the Singlet

1. Lightly steam or block the front and back pieces.
2. Place them together with right sides facing.
3. Sew the side seams from the lower edge to the beginning of each armhole.
4. Leave the shoulder edges open until the neckline and button bands are complete.

Finish the Armholes

Using 3 mm needles, pick up approximately:

• 6 months: 60 stitches
• 9 months: 64 stitches
• 12 months: 68 stitches

Work three rows of twisted knit-one, purl-one rib, then cast off in pattern.

Repeat around the second armhole.

Finish the Back Neckline and Button Bands

Using 3 mm needles, pick up approximately 49, 53 or 57 stitches across the back neckline and shoulder edges.

Work three rows of twisted rib.

On the fourth row, create four buttonholes using knit-two-together and yarn-over pairs, placing two buttonholes near each shoulder.

Work two further rows of twisted rib and cast off in pattern.

Attach the Buttons

Position the front shoulder rib beneath the back shoulder buttonhole bands. Sew two buttons securely to each front shoulder so they align with the four buttonholes.

Reinforce each button with several passes of thread and check the attachment regularly.

Final Finishing

1. Weave in every loose yarn end.
2. Check that the stripes align neatly at the side seams.
3. Check the leg and armhole borders for even tension.
4. Thread the i-cord through the bloomer waistband.
5. Attach and test all four buttons.
6. Gently block the complete set to the intended measurements.

Alternative Yarns for This Project

A substitute should be soft, breathable, washable and capable of achieving the required stitch tension.

• 8 ply cotton – provides breathability, clear stitches and a cool summer fabric.
• 8 ply organic cotton – offers a finish closest to the original project.
• 8 ply cotton and bamboo blend – produces a soft, smooth fabric with extra drape.
• 8 ply cotton and acrylic blend – creates a lighter, softer fabric with easier drying.
• 8 ply baby acrylic – an affordable, washable option, although it may feel warmer than cotton.
• 8 ply merino and cotton blend – suitable for transitional weather when a little extra warmth is desired.

Choosing the Best Substitute

For warm-weather wear, choose cotton, organic cotton or a cotton-bamboo blend. These fibres are breathable and comfortable against delicate skin.

Select a smooth yarn that clearly displays the twisted rib and two-row stripes. Avoid highly fluffy, boucle or loosely spun yarns, as they may obscure the shaping and make buttonholes difficult to work.

The substitute should also be machine washable or easy to hand wash, as baby garments generally require frequent cleaning.

Colour Ideas

• Mustard and cream
• Sage green and natural
• Powder blue and white
• Blush pink and oatmeal
• Terracotta and cream
• Lilac and pale grey
• Navy and white
• One solid colour with contrasting ribbed borders
• Soft rainbow stripes with a neutral main colour

Care

Follow the care instructions on the selected yarn label. Close the shoulder buttons and place the set inside a laundry bag before machine washing where permitted.

Reshape the singlet, bloomers and ribbed openings while damp. Dry flat to help preserve the fit and prevent the cotton fabric from stretching.