P363 Crafter’s Cardigan

P363 Crafter’s Cardigan

This is a really creative garment shape that can be a cardigan, bolero, cape or scarf. It is made in two pieces; a left piece and a right piece which become the fronts, backs and sleeve openings.

How to Knit a Crafter’s Cardigan

Knit a versatile colourblocked garment that can be styled as a cardigan, bolero, cape or scarf. The design is worked sideways in two large ribbed pieces, with each piece forming part of the front, back and one sleeve opening.

The left and right pieces are folded, seamed and joined at the centre back. Once assembled, the cast-on edges drape forwards to create the open fronts and wide shawl-style neckline.

Project Details

  • Project number: P363
  • Difficulty: Intermediate knit
  • Size: One size
  • Construction: Two sideways-knitted pieces
  • Style options: Cardigan, bolero, cape or scarf
  • Main stitch: K1, P1 rib

Finished Measurements

  • Bust circumference: approximately 120 cm
  • Length of fronts: approximately 60 cm

What You Will Need

Yarn

  • Colour 1 – Collagen Grey: 5 × 100 g balls of Makr Soft & Luxe
  • Colour 2 – Blush Pink: 1 × 100 g ball
  • Colour 3 – Semillon Yellow: 1 × 100 g ball
  • Colour 4 – Ruby: 1 × 100 g ball
  • Colour 5 – Sapphire: 1 × 100 g ball

Needles and Equipment

  • 5.50 mm straight knitting needles for the centre-front bands
  • 7.00 mm straight knitting needles for the main garment
  • Wool needle for sewing seams and weaving in ends
  • Stitch markers, optional

Pattern Note

The equipment list specifies 7.00 mm needles for the main garment, while the first instruction after the front band says to change to 6.00 mm needles. The stated tension is measured on 7.00 mm needles, so use 7.00 mm needles unless a tension sample shows that another size is needed.

Alternative Yarns

Choose a soft bulky or chunky yarn that can achieve the required tension of 22 stitches and 19 rows to 10 cm in K1, P1 rib using approximately 7.00 mm needles.

  • Soft chunky wool: Provides warmth, elasticity and good rib definition.
  • Wool and acrylic chunky blend: Combines warmth and resilience with easier washing.
  • Chunky merino or merino blend: Creates a soft garment with comfortable drape and stretch.
  • Chunky acrylic: An economical, easy-care alternative, although the garment may have less natural drape.
  • Two strands of a lighter yarn held together: May be suitable where a matching chunky yarn is unavailable, provided the rib tension and finished fabric closely match the pattern.

This garment uses intarsia-style colour sections, so choose yarns with similar fibre content, thickness and stretch. Match the substitute yarn by total metreage rather than ball count and purchase all balls for each colour from the same dye lot.

Tension

22 stitches and 19 rows to 10 cm over K1, P1 rib using 7.00 mm needles.

Knit and wash a tension square before beginning. The cardigan is created from large shaped pieces, so even a small difference in tension can alter the armhole size, back width and front drape.

Knitting Abbreviations

  • K: knit
  • P: purl
  • K3tog: knit three stitches together to create a right-leaning double decrease
  • SSSK: slip three stitches knitwise one at a time, then knit all three together through the back loops to create a left-leaning double decrease
  • St or sts: stitch or stitches
  • RS: right side
  • WS: wrong side
  • C1–C5: colours 1 to 5

What Is K1, P1 Rib?

K1, P1 rib is made by alternating one knit stitch and one purl stitch across the row. On following rows, knit the knit stitches and purl the purl stitches as they appear.

This creates a highly flexible, reversible fabric with narrow vertical columns. The entire cardigan is worked in this rib pattern.

How to Change Colours

The colour sections are worked using an intarsia-style method. Separate lengths or balls of yarn are used for each block rather than carrying the unused yarn across the back.

  1. Work to the point where the next colour begins.
  2. Drop the old colour and bring the new colour underneath and around it.
  3. Twist the two yarns together on the wrong side before continuing.
  4. Keep the twist firm enough to close the gap, but not so tight that the fabric puckers.

When changing colours on a right-side row, twist the yarns at the back of the work. On a wrong-side row, make the twist at the front of the work so it remains on the garment’s wrong side.

Understanding the Construction

The cardigan is made from two matching shaped pieces:

  • The cast-on edge becomes one centre-front opening.
  • The long inner edge becomes half of the centre-back seam.
  • The divided and shaped section creates a contoured sleeve opening.
  • The cast-off edges are joined to close the lower part of the armhole.

Knit the Left Side

Work the Centre-Front Band

  1. Using Colour 1 and 5.50 mm needles, cast on 140 stitches.
  2. Work 12 rows in K1, P1 rib.
  3. Change to the larger needles and continue in K1, P1 rib.

Begin the Colourblocking

Maintain the K1, P1 rib throughout and twist the yarns together at every colour change.

  1. Row 13, RS: C2 for 10 stitches, then C1 for 130 stitches.
  2. Row 14: C1 for 128 stitches, then C2 for 12 stitches.
  3. Row 15: C2 for 14 stitches, then C1 for 126 stitches.
  4. Row 16, WS: C3 for 2 stitches, C1 for 122 stitches, then C2 for 16 stitches.
  5. Row 17: C2 for 18 stitches, C1 for 118 stitches, then C3 for 4 stitches.
  6. Continue the colour sequence below, always keeping the rib pattern correct.

Left-Side Colour Sequence

  • Row 19: C3 6, C1 114, C2 20
  • Row 20: C2 22, C1 110, C3 8
  • Row 21: C3 10, C1 106, C2 24
  • Row 22: C2 26, C1 102, C3 12
  • Row 23: C3 14, C1 98, C2 28
  • Row 24: C4 10, C2 24, C1 90, C3 16
  • Row 25: C3 18, C1 84, C2 26, C4 12
  • Row 26: C4 14, C3 26, C1 80, C3 20
  • Row 27: C3 22, C1 74, C3 28, C4 16
  • Row 28: C4 18, C3 28, C1 70, C3 24
  • Row 29: C3 26, C1 64, C2 30, C4 20
  • Row 30: C4 22, C2 30, C1 60, C3 28
  • Row 31: C3 30, C1 54, C2 32, C4 24
  • Row 32: C4 26, C2 32, C1 50, C3 32
  • Row 33: C3 34, C1 44, C2 34, C4 28
  • Row 34: C4 30, C2 34, C1 40, C3 36
  • Row 35: C3 38, C1 34, C2 36, C4 32
  • Row 36: C4 34, C2 34, C1 32, C3 38
  • Row 37: C3 42, C1 28, C2 34, C4 36
  • Row 38: C4 38, C2 34, C1 24, C3 44
  • Row 39: C3 46, C1 18, C2 36, C4 40
  • Row 40: C4 42, C2 36, C1 14, C3 48
  • Row 41: C3 50, C1 8, C2 38, C4 44
  • Row 42: C4 46, C2 38, C1 4, C3 52
  • Row 43: C3 54, C2 38, C4 48
  • Row 44: C4 50, C2 34, C3 56
  • Row 45: C5 4, C3 54, C2 32, C4 52
  • Row 46: C4 54, C2 26, C3 54, C5 6
  • Row 47: C5 8, C3 54, C2 22, C4 56
  • Row 48: C4 58, C2 18, C3 54, C5 10
  • Row 49: C5 12, C3 54, C2 14, C4 60
  • Row 50: C4 62, C2 10, C3 54, C5 14
  • Row 51: C5 16, C3 54, C2 6, C4 64
  • Row 52: C4 66, C3 54, C5 20
  • Row 53: C5 24, C3 48, C4 68
  • Row 54: C4 70, C3 42, C5 28
  • Row 55: C5 32, C3 36, C4 72
  • Row 56: C4 72, C1 6, C3 30, C5 36
  • Row 57: C5 40, C3 24, C1 12, C4 64
  • Row 58: C4 60, C1 18, C3 18, C5 44
  • Row 60: C5 48, C3 12, C1 24, C4 56
  • Row 61: C4 52, C1 30, C3 8, C5 50
  • Row 62: C5 52, C3 2, C1 38, C4 48
  • Row 63: C4 44, C1 44, C5 52
  • Row 64: C5 50, C1 50, C4 40
  • Row 65: C4 36, C1 56, C5 48
  • Row 66: C5 46, C1 62, C4 32
  • Row 67: C4 28, C1 70, C5 42
  • Row 68: C5 40, C1 76, C4 24
  • Row 69: C5 20, C1 82, C5 38
  • Row 70: C5 36, C1 88, C4 16
  • Row 71: C4 12, C1 94, C5 34
  • Row 72: C5 32, C1 100, C4 8

Source Sequence Note

The project sheet does not list Rows 18 or 59. Before beginning, mark the colour sequence carefully and compare each row with the colour image so the diagonal blocks remain continuous.

Shape the First Armhole

  1. Row 73: With C1, cast off 6 stitches, continue in rib for 104 stitches, then work C5 for 29 stitches.
  2. Row 74: With C5, cast off 6 stitches, continue in rib for 21 stitches, then work C1 for 107 stitches. 128 stitches remain.
  3. Row 75: With C1, K1, P1, SSSK, continue in rib for 106 stitches, then work the remaining colour section to the final 5 stitches and work P3tog, K1, P1. 124 stitches remain.
  4. Row 76: Work C4 for 11 stitches and C1 for 113 stitches.
  5. Row 77: With C1, K1, P1, SSSK, continue in rib for 112 stitches, then work P1, K1, P3tog, K1, P1 in C4. 120 stitches remain.
  6. Row 78: Work the entire row in C1 rib.

Split the Knitting for the Armhole

  1. Row 79: K1, P1, SSSK, continue in rib for 55 stitches, then turn.
  2. Leave the other 60 stitches on the needle or place them on a holder.
  3. Row 80: K1, P1, K1, P1, K3tog, then continue in rib to the end. 56 stitches.
  4. Row 81: K1, P1, SSSK, continue in rib for 51 stitches, then turn.
  5. Row 82: K1, P1, K1, P1, K3tog, continue in rib to the end. 52 stitches.
  6. Row 83: Work 52 stitches and turn.
  7. Row 84: K1, P1, K1, P1, K3tog, continue in rib to the end. 50 stitches.
  8. Row 85: Work 50 stitches and turn.
  9. Row 86: K1, P1, K1, P1, K3tog, continue in rib to the end. 48 stitches.
  10. Row 87: Work 48 stitches and turn.
  11. Row 88: K1, P1, K1, P1, K3tog, continue in rib to the end. 46 stitches.
  12. Row 89: Work 46 stitches and turn.
  13. Row 90: K1, P1, K1, P1, K3tog, continue in rib to the end. 44 stitches.
  14. Work Rows 91–111 straight in rib over the remaining 44 stitches.
  15. Cast off.

Complete the Other Side of the Armhole

  1. Return the remaining stitches to the needle so the next row begins on the wrong side.
  2. Work K1, P1, SSSK, then continue in rib for 55 stitches and turn.
  3. Repeat the shaping from Rows 80–111.
  4. Cast off.

Knit the Right Side

Work a second piece following the complete left-side instructions, including the colour sequence and armhole shaping.

Label the finished pieces Left and Right before beginning the assembly.

Assemble Each Side Piece

  1. Lay the left piece flat with the cast-on edge at one end and the shaped cast-off sections at the opposite end.
  2. Fold the left piece in half underneath itself so the two cast-off edges meet.
  3. Sew the meeting cast-off edges together for approximately 19 cm.
  4. Leave the curved opening unsewn. This becomes the armhole.
  5. Repeat the folding and seaming process for the right piece.

Join the Centre Back

  1. Position the folded left and right pieces beside one another with their long centre-back edges aligned.
  2. Sew the two centre-back edges together, including the curved section.
  3. The centre-back join should measure approximately 84 cm.
  4. Weave in the seam ends securely.

Turn and Shape the Cardigan

  1. Rotate the assembled garment so it is turned upside down from its sewing position.
  2. Press or gently block the centre-back seam to smooth the curved, contoured section.
  3. Allow the cast-on edges to fall forwards naturally and form the two centre fronts.
  4. Check that the two armholes sit evenly on either side.

Ways to Wear the Garment

  • Wear it low and open as a draped cardigan.
  • Draw it higher across the shoulders and wear it as a cape or bolero.
  • Fold or overlap the two front sections for a closer cardigan fit.
  • Allow the fronts to fold underneath and create a sculpted open shape.
  • Wrap the garment around the shoulders or neck as an oversized scarf.

Finish the Cardigan

  1. Weave in all remaining yarn ends on the wrong side.
  2. Check every colour join and reinforce any loose gaps.
  3. Gently block the cardigan according to the yarn’s care instructions.
  4. Support the full weight of the garment while drying to prevent the rib fabric from stretching.

Helpful Tips

Prepare separate small balls or bobbins for each colour block. This will reduce tangling and make the intarsia sections easier to manage.

Use a row counter and tick off every colour row as it is completed. The colour placement changes on almost every row.

Keep all yarn changes on the wrong side and twist the yarns at every join to prevent holes.

Place removable markers along the edges identified as the centre back, armhole cast-offs and centre fronts before sewing.

Follow the assembly diagrams carefully. The garment is turned upside down after sewing, so its shape may not appear recognisable until the final rotation and draping stage.

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