How to Crochet the Cottage Loom Zip Jacket
Create a cosy, textured jacket with a modern asymmetric look using this intermediate crochet pattern. The jacket is worked sideways in two matching halves, beginning at each centre front and progressing towards the middle of the back.
Front-loop slip stitches create the dense, ribbed fabric, while integrated pocket openings, separately worked sleeves and an open-ended zip complete the design.
Project: Zip Jacket
Pattern: P366
Craft type: Crochet
Difficulty: Intermediate
Sizes and Finished Measurements
| Size | XS | S | M | L |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Chest width | 45 cm | 50 cm | 55 cm | 60 cm |
| Finished length | 59 cm | 64 cm | 69 cm | 71 cm |
What You Will Need
Yarn
The original pattern uses Makr Cottage Loom yarn in 100 g balls.
| Size | XS | S | M | L |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 100 g balls required | 6 | 6 | 7 | 7 |
Hooks and Equipment
- 15 mm crochet hook
- Smaller crochet hook for joining seams
- 10 mm crochet hook for the edging
- Stitch markers
- Wool or felt needle for sewing in ends
- Tapestry needle for attaching the pockets
- Open-ended zip measuring 40, 45, 50 or 55 cm, depending on size
Tension
Using a 15 mm crochet hook, work to a tension of:
8 front-loop slip stitches and 10 rows over the pattern tension area.
Work a generous tension sample before beginning. Front-loop slip stitch creates a dense fabric and can vary considerably depending on how tightly the yarn is held.
Abbreviations
- Ch: Chain
- Sl: Slip stitch
- Tfl: Through front loop
- St or sts: Stitch or stitches
- Ea: Each
- Sk: Skip
- Prev: Previous
- Yoh: Yarn over hook
- Sl2tog: Work two slip stitches together by drawing up a loop in each of the next two stitches and pulling through all loops on the hook.
Construction Overview
The jacket is constructed in two matching body pieces. Each piece begins at a centre front edge and is worked sideways through the following areas:
- Centre front
- Side front and shoulder shaping
- Pocket opening
- Side and underarm
- Side back and sleeve shaping
- Centre back and neckline shaping
The two halves are joined at the centre back. The shoulder seams are crocheted together, the sleeves are worked directly from the armholes and the internal pockets are added separately.
Begin the First Body Half
Using the 15 mm hook, make the foundation chain for the selected size:
- XS: 49 chains
- S: 51 chains
- M: 53 chains
- L: 55 chains
Turn the chain so the wrong side faces you. Beginning in the first chain from the hook, work one slip stitch into every chain.
Continue working backwards and forwards in front-loop slip stitch. The centre front section is worked straight before decreases are introduced to shape the shoulder.
Shape the Shoulder and Side Front
Shoulder shaping is created by occasionally skipping the second-last stitch of a row. This decreases the stitch count gradually while keeping the outer edge neat.
Alternate the decrease rows with straight rows as directed for the chosen size. Use stitch markers to identify important shaping rows and the end of each garment section.
Create the Pocket Opening
The pocket opening is created within the side-front section.
Work across the first group of stitches, make a short chain, skip the same number of stitches underneath and continue across the row. The chain forms the upper edge of the pocket opening.
On the following row, work into each stitch and chain across the opening. Place a marker in the first stitch of the completed row.
Work the Side and Underarm
The side and underarm section is worked across only part of the current stitch count, leaving the remaining stitches unworked.
Work four rows across this shorter section and mark the underarm rows with stitch markers. These marked rows will later be used when attaching the sleeve.
Shape the Side Back
Additional chains are added to create the back section and the upper sleeve area. Work into the new chains and continue across the existing stitches.
Small chain increases are then added at the ends of selected rows to shape the shoulder and side back. Continue alternating straight and increase rows according to the selected size.
Shape the Centre Back and Neckline
The centre-back neckline is shaped by decreasing at alternating ends of successive rows.
Once the required decreases and straight rows have been completed, fasten off the first body half.
Make the Second Half
Work a second matching body half by repeating the full pattern from the beginning.
Do not cut the yarn after completing the second half. Use it to join the two pieces together at the centre back.
Join the Centre-Back Seam
Place the two back edges side by side. Using a smaller crochet hook, join the pieces with slip stitches, working through the corresponding loops of each edge.
Keep the seam flexible. It should stretch slightly without becoming loose or bulky.
Join the Shoulder Seams
With the right sides facing, place the front and back shoulder edges side by side.
Join the corresponding row ends with slip stitches using a smaller hook. Repeat for the second shoulder.
Add the Edging
With the right side facing and using the 10 mm hook, work slip-stitch edging around the lower front, neckline, opposite front and hem.
Work into every chain along the front edges and approximately every second row along the collar, neckline and lower hem.
Adjust the spacing where necessary so the edging lies flat without gathering or flaring.
Crochet the Sleeves
The sleeves are worked directly from the armholes, beginning at the underarm. Work backwards and forwards from the shoulder towards the cuff.
Pick up the required number of stitches around the armhole, skipping the shoulder seam. During the first three rows, join each row to the next marked underarm row to shape the lower armhole.
Continue in front-loop slip stitch until the required sleeve length is reached.
Join the Sleeve Seams
Fold each sleeve with the right sides facing and align the row edges.
Join the seam with slip stitches, taking care to keep it flexible and even. Fasten off securely.
Make the Internal Pockets
With the wrong side of the jacket facing, begin at the lower edge of the pocket opening.
- Make two chains.
- Work across the lower pocket-opening edge.
- Add the required foundation chains to form the pocket depth.
- Continue backwards and forwards in front-loop slip stitch until the pocket measures 13 rows.
- Fasten off.
- Sew the pocket neatly to the inside of the jacket, matching the pocket stitches and rows to the body fabric.
Install the Zip
Pin the open-ended zip evenly along the two centre-front edges.
Hand sew the zip in place, gently easing the crochet fabric as you work. Avoid stretching the front edges, as this may cause the finished zip to ripple.
Check that both fronts align at the hem and neckline before sewing the second side permanently.
Alternative Yarns for This Project
The original pattern recommends Makr Cottage Loom. Because the jacket is made in dense front-loop slip stitch on a 15 mm hook, any substitute must be very bulky and capable of producing a firm but flexible fabric.
Suitable Yarn Types
- Super-chunky wool blend – provides warmth, structure and elasticity while remaining lighter than many pure synthetic yarns.
- Super-chunky acrylic – an affordable, easy-care option with good colour availability.
- Super-chunky wool – creates a warm, structured jacket with a natural finish, although it may require careful washing.
- Thick roving-style yarn – can reproduce the soft, oversized texture of the original, provided it is sufficiently durable for a jacket.
- Two strands of chunky yarn held together – may provide the required thickness when a suitable single super-chunky yarn is not available.
- Recycled fibre blend – can create a dense, contemporary fabric, but should be tested carefully for weight and stretch.
Choosing the Best Substitute
The safest substitute is a smooth, super-chunky yarn recommended for a hook of approximately 12–15 mm.
Avoid very fluffy, loosely spun or fragile yarns. The pattern places considerable friction on the yarn because every row is worked in slip stitch, and weak fibres may pill or break.
A substitute should have enough elasticity to make the jacket comfortable, but not so much stretch that the zip edges distort.
Finishing and Care
- Sew in all loose ends securely.
- Check the centre-back and shoulder seams.
- Ensure both pockets are firmly attached.
- Test the zip several times before wearing.
- Lightly block the jacket to the finished measurements.
Follow the care instructions for the selected yarn. Lay the jacket flat to dry and close the zip before storing so the front edges retain their shape.
